In Search of a Purple Peach

Indian Free Peach – Is this the Purple Peach?

This past weekend we attended an event at the Acta Non Verba Urban Farm. Kelly Carlisle, who runs it asked us if we could bring some of our chickens and we happily obliged.

There was a woman that taught a cooking demonstration about how to make Sweet Potato Butter that was so very delicious Tom couldn’t stop eating it. Due to Tom constantly being at her table to snag another sample he struck up a conversation with the instructor (I wish I had caught her name). She told Tom about a purple peach she used to get for processing. It was so purple it dyed her hands purple when she processed them. She said it was a peach that was once fairly common in the South but rare elsewhere. According to her there was only two people she knew in the Bay Area that grew it, one in Oakland and one in Vallejo. He quickly ran over to me to tell me about it.

He knows me too well. I’m OBSESSED with unique, rare varieties of plants (and breeds of animals). A purple peach? I must find this variety and when I do I will be finding space somewhere in my yard to plant it. Of course Tom doesn’t want me adding more plants so by sharing this with me he was doing himself a disservice. I think he secretly wants one of these peach trees too.

I started researching online for purple peach varieties. Here’s what I’ve been able to find. Winegrowers used to plant peach trees with their vines. The peach trees were extra susceptible to mildew so when the trees got infected winegrowers would be able to stop the mildew problem before it effected their vines. These peaches were called “vine peach,” “wine peach,” or “blood peach” because of their red-purple flesh. From what I can deduce, this was primarily done in France though, so not exactly what I’m looking for. Or is it?

I then found this gem:

One “Blood” peach tree was sent Jefferson in 1807 by the Washington nurseryman Thomas Main. In 1810 Jefferson planted forty-one stones of the “black plumb peach of Georgia” in the “New Nursery.” These likely came from William Meriwether, who had passed on “black soft peaches of Georgia” in 1804 and “Georgia black” peaches in 1809. When pomological writers such as Philip Miller, William Coxe, A. J. Downing, and U. P. Hedrick discussed the Blood Cling peach, they attributed its origin to a French variety known as Sanguinole, a curiosity suitable mostly for preserving. Today the peach is known as the Indian Blood Cling, a name that unites the “Blood” peach of the French Sanguinole with the “Indian” peach that grows wild in the southeastern states of Georgia and Florida and was obtained by Jefferson as the “black plumb peach of Georgia.” The fruit, entirely splashed and mottled with scarlet, tiger-like stripes, is sometimes twelve inches round. The skin resembles a beet: scarlet, tough, and meaty, although pleasantly flavored and brisk. Blood Cling is a fine peach to eat out of hand but is mostly used for pickling and preserving. It was commonly listed by early nineteenth-century nurseries and is still offered in the trade.

There appears to be 4 varieties of peach that might be the purple peach I’m in search of. The Indian Blood Peach, the Indian Free Peach, the Sanguinole Peach, and the Sanguine de Manosque Peach. The funniest thing about all of this is that I have an Indian Blood Peach in my yard already. I originally bought it as an Indian Free Peach but it is not a freestone, but rather a clingstone, so I’m certain it’s actually the Indian Blood Peach. While it wasn’t as dark as the peach above, it was very dark red and it did indeed stain my hands as I ate it. Apparently the color can range from white with red stripes to the dark purple color above from year to year.

I’m sure Tom is relieved to know that I won’t be planting another tree in our yard.

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Big Plans and Bigger Plans

I’ve been pretty hush hush about what our plans will be in the future. Well the future is coming quick and it’s time to spill the beans I suppose because things are about to get C-R-A-Z-Y.

The garden last year

Urban farming in our city is great if you’re doing it for your family but we still don’t have an ordinance that allows us to sell the excess food that we grow to our neighbors and friends. Although, in all honesty, we really don’t have any excess food because we eat pretty much all that we produce and preserve that which we can’t eat fresh. Selling what we produce probably isn’t the best plan for us even if it was legal. Why produce food to sell and just turn around and use that money to replace the food that we sold?

In September 2011 I began a dialogue with our city’s Planning Manager about what I could legally do. Selling food, of course, was a no-go. To sell food, even raw agricultural products, I would have to be zoned for commercial. We’re zoned low-density residential so that wouldn’t work.

Working on the greenhouse

All was not lost though because I had a Plan B. I can get a home occupation permit to sell plants as long as I grow them from seed on my property rather than bring in wholesale plants to resell. That’s easy to do considering Plan B was to only sell heirloom vegetable plants from saved seed of varieties I’ve grown that I know do well in our climate.

Of course when we figured out Plan B is legal here it was a bit too late to get started for the 2012 season. We still needed to get together stuff for our greenhouse project. But now the greenhouse is almost up and should be finished in the next month so I’ll have starts to sell this coming Spring! Stay tuned for the list of plants and varieties I’ll have available.

Most influential farm visit we’ve ever made

But that’s not all we’ve got in the works! Our big Big BIG plan is to become full scale farmers. That’s right, we’re going to take this to the next level. It’s not going to happen overnight as we’ve got a lot of things we need to do first before going all the way. My first task is to start taking ag courses, particularly in ag business, marketing, and sustainability this winter. Then we’re going to need to develop a business plan and research market conditions and figure out what we want to produce. And all of this before we start looking for land. Looking for land will involve checking soils, local climate, water access, flooding, site history (and any contamination that my have occurred in the past), and various other issues. We’ll most likely do fruits, vegetables, and eggs. We’ll have other animals like our goats, probably a pig or two and a cow but only for personal use. We’re also considering some draft animals as well sometime in the future. There’s a lot to think about and to research because one of us will be quitting our job to make this a full time endeavor. The other one will have to remain at work to bring in a second income because if there’s one thing we’ve learned (well, there’s lots of things we’ve learned) from all the farmers that we’ve interviewed, that second income is crucial for the survival of a farm unless you’re the most famous farmer in America (Mr. Salatin).

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The Edible Front Yard Without Pissing Off Your Neighbors (or Your City)

Using as much of your property to grow food is becoming more and more popular.Unfortunately there are some that don’t feel that food growing should be in public view. I don’t know when fruits and vegetables were looked at as unattractive but proper planning can make for an attractive vegetable garden. Sometimes, however, no matter how attractive you make it your neighbors may not be happy and neither will your city, especially if you live in an HOA. Fortunately you can be sneaky and go with perennial plants that most people won’t realize are food producers or they do know they are but because they are also consider ornamentals they get a pass. Here are just a few that you can plant in your front yard that can fool everyone.

Arbutus or Strawberry tree is a California Native evergreen tree with beautiful decorative red bark, clusters of small pink flowers which become dry edible fruits. They aren’t the best tasting on their own but you can make preserves from them.

Aronia, or chokeberry is a large shrub native to North America and is now considered a super fruit (whatever that means). Small white flowers are followed by clusters of black or red fruit. Has showy fall color. Deciduous.

Artichokes have a wonderful architectural structure and texture that compliments many other plants. Their gray-green fronds die back in the summer but they are the first things up and at ‘em when the rains start. If you don’t get to the buds in time just let them bloom. They are the most gorgeous blue-purple color.

Blueberries are on deciduous to semi-evergreen shrubs. You’ll need at least two different varieties for pollination. They have fantastic fall color. In the spring they are covered with delicate white flowers which are followed by the fruit. They do need acid soil so if your soil isn’t quite right grow them in containers.

Citrus trees, particularly dwarf citrus, are great accents for any front yard and do well in pots. If you live in a colder climate you can keep them in pots and then move them indoors when the weather gets too cold.

Stevens Cranberries make a nice sprawling evergreen groundcover that turns purple in the winter. The do not need to be in a bog, as most people think. The bog is only created temporarily because it aids in harvest (the berries float).

Currants are very attractive deciduous shrubs with hanging clusters of pink flowers followed by clusters of showy fruit that comes in a variety of colors including red, black and white. There are California native currants (Ribes) that are also edible but more drought tolerant. They are related to gooseberries but don’t have thorns.

Fruit Trees are great for front yards because most of them put on a beautiful show of flowers in the spring and then fall color. Most are deciduous. Good choices include pear (photo above), apple, persimmon, pomegranate, fig (though should only be use if espaliered or you have a very large yard), and stone fruit.

We can’t forget some vines. Grapes make a great addition, especially if you have an entry feature such as an arbor or a covered walkway. As you can see they offer not only fruit but fantastic fall color.

Herbs (culinary and medicinal) are probably one of the best front yard plants. You get quite the bang for your buck and they are very decorative. Most are evergreen and will flower. Rosemary, thyme, chives, feverfew, basil and chamomile are just to name a few.

Horseradish is another great plant to add a new texture. Just be careful as it needs to be contained or it can become invasive.

Evergreen huckleberries are a California native, being more drought tolerant than it’s cousin the blueberry. They prefer shade but can do sun in cooler climates.

Arctostaphylos or Manzanita is a native Californian evergreen shrub or groundcover that has very attractive bark. In the spring it can be loaded with clusters of flowers that are followed by red edible berries.

Kiwi vines are another gorgeous vine that you can use over arbors or covered walkways. You will need at least two – one male and one female vine.

Lemongrass is a great plant to add to your front yard because it simply looks like an ornamental grass. It adds texture and movement to your landscape.

Olive trees are beautiful evergreen trees that give a Mediterranean feel.

Passionfruit is another vine you should consider if you live in a warmer climate. Beautiful, showy flowers are followed by fruits that ripen to dark purple.

Nasturtiums are a fantastic, rambling, vining groundcover that come in a multitude of flower colors. The leaves are edible and are commonly used in salads.

Raspberries make a great deciduous screening plant. They do run so it’s a good idea to contain them.

Rhubarb has these beautiful tropical looking leaves (but don’t eat them, only eat the stalks). There are different varieties that have different colored stalks. The leaves get huge and along with red stalks they add a lot of interest to the garden.

Rugosa Roses are where we get rose hips. They come in a variety of colors and of course have showy flowers. They can spread a bit by runners. Rose hips are commonly used in herbal teas but you can also use them to make jellies and candies.

Runner Beans are a great cool season vegetable to grow. Around here they are actually perennial, showing up every spring. Beautiful showy flowers cover them until the tops die back from frost.

Strawberries make a fantastic spreading groundcover. The cute white flowers quickly turn into the showy red fruit. And if you’ve never had a fresh picked strawberry that has been warmed by the sun, you’re truly missing out.

Sweet potatoes have gorgeous sprawling vines and make a wonderful groundcover. They also look great cascading over walls. They have showy flowers. Just remember to dig them up before the frosts come.

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Growing Peppers from Seed

It’s getting to be that time to start my pepper and tomato seedlings. I definitely don’t want to fall as far behind this year as I did last year with them.

In my experience, peppers can actually be one of the harder plants to get to germinate. I used to start everything but peppers by seed and just go buy pepper plants. But I wasn’t satisfied having to limit myself to just what I could find at the nursery. There are so many varieties of peppers out there that it seemed a shame to not grow them.

I always knew that pepper seeds need warmth to germinate, but even with using a seedling heat mat, it didn’t seem all that successful. After doing some research I found that the type of soil you used made all the difference. Pepper seedlings don’t like peat, so those peat pellets and soils that are made up primarily of peat moss inhibit pepper seed germination. I like to use orchid mix to start my pepper seedlings because it’s mostly made up of forest products.

Another important thing to know about peppers is that the hotter they are the longer it will take for them to germinate. While sweet peppers can germinate in as little as 6 days, a hot pepper, like Bhut Jolokia (Ghost pepper) can take up to 30 days.

I know it seems early, but every year I always say to myself “next year I need to start these in December.” Well, it’s December and it’s time for me to get on them. Unfortunately, I haven’t figured out which varieties to grow yet!

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The Potato Bin Experiment

After a completely miserable potato harvest this year we’ve decided to pull them out of the ground and do them in boxes made out of pallets. That way we can use weedblock under them to eliminate the whole bindweed issue. So today, the boxes went up.

We cleaned up an area of our yard which was just a pile of old scrap wood. We pulled the weeds and raked it as smooth as we could get it.

We got some 4′ wide contractor grade weedblock and laid it down using staples.

We used two sizes of pallets. The back and front sides are 36×48 and the sides/dividers are 36×36. This allowed the weedblock to extend past the bottom footprint of the boxes.

 The corners were screwed together in 4 spots with 1-1/2″ deck screws.

We used 3″ deck screws to attach the front and back pallets together in 3 places.

We did the back, sides and dividers first before attaching the front pallets. Of course the two sides closest to the camera were put in sideways and had to be redone, which really didn’t take much time.

Tom had to jump in for a photo op once they were all put together.

We started filling them by putting straw on the bottom just to help keep everything from falling out.

We then started putting in composted animal bedding and manure and screened top soil. We only filled them about half way so we can build up as the potatoes grow.

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What I’ve Learned about Growing Cool Season Vegetables

Not all cool season vegetables are created equal. At least that’s what I’ve been realizing. Just because a plant prefers cool weather doesn’t mean I can just stick it in the ground in the fall and/or spring and expect it to perform. Nor does it mean that I can plant a cool season crop when it’s cold out and expect it to grow. Some prefer to start out in the cold while some languish. And then there’s the issue of pests. Scheduling plantings around pests can really save you a lot of headaches. So here’s what I’ve learned about various cool season plants in my area:

Beets – So far I’ve had the best luck planting them in September. It’s just starting to cool off enough for them to sprout.

Brassicas – Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi, broccoli and other related plants do best when planted in August. Planting in September is pushing it. From what I’ve learned, they need the heat of August and September to get going. Then they grow slower when the weather cools down. Planting them then also helps reduce the damage from slugs and snails when they are young (it’s still too hot for them) and then when it gets colder the aphids and mealybugs stay away.

Carrots – Plant around August. They like warm soil to sprout but benefit from the cooler, wet weather to follow.

Garlic – Plant in the fall, preferably right after the first rain. This will help them get nice big cloves.

Lettuce – Plant it any time really, but it will take longer to bolt if you plant in fall. They also will not germinate if it’s too warm.

Onions – Plant in spring. Planting in the fall tricks them into thinking they are 2 years old so when the weather warms up they start to send up flowers – thus ruining them for storage.

Peas – Plant in the spring. They produce more and don’t succumb to powdery mildew as quickly as fall planted peas.

Potatoes – Plant in spring. Planting in fall can kill your tubers. They sprout and then the frost comes in and freezes them. Heavy rains cause them to rot in the ground.

Spinach – This seems to do well any time I plant it when it’s cool out. Does best in the spring though.

Swiss chard – Also a fall crop. It can go in a bit later than the brassicas. When you plant it in the fall it will take longer to bolt and also the leaf miners will be reduced because of the cold.

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Sweet Potato Harvest

The days are getting shorter and the nights colder. As we quickly approach our average first frost date I realize that it’s time to pull out our sweet potatoes. Because of late rains all over the U.S. we didn’t receive our slips until late June, giving them a rather short season. As usual, most of the garden had been planted leaving very little space for the sweet potatoes.

Sweet potatoes do best with low nitrogen, otherwise they put out too much green growth and not enough energy goes into growing nice, large tubers. I ended up choosing to put them in our potato bed, which hadn’t been amended for quite some time, so I knew the nitrogen wouldn’t be high.

The toughest part of growing sweet potatoes was finding the slips. Sweet potatoes are propagated vegetatively by sprouting the tubers and carefully cutting off the sprouts. These sprouts with a small amount of roots are called slips. You can learn more on how to propagate your own here.

Most slips are grown in the southern states and are strictly prohibited from entering into California because of the risk of leaf curl disease, which could have a huge impact on California’s sweet potato production. However, I was incredibly lucky to not only find a place that could ship sweet potato slips, but also sold rare heirloom varieties. Sand Hill Preservation Center, located in Calamus, Iowa, has permission to ship slips to California because they grow all their own rather than having them drop shipped from the southern states. Iowa doesn’t have a problem with leaf curl disease so it’s one of the only online retailers that I can order slips from. The downside, however, is that I get the slips later in the year.

This year we grew three heirloom varieties. Since this is the first year growing heirlooms we’ll be looking for what does best here. Frazier White is a white skinned and white fleshed heirloom.. Purple has deep purple skin and purple flesh. Oakleaf has these beautiful deeply lobed leaves that resemble oak leaves. They have pink skin and light orange flesh.

Harvesting sweet potatoes is easier than potatoes. All of the tubers are found directly under and attached to the main plant. Use a spading fork to help pry them up. I found this was better than a shovel because you’re less likely to sever the roots. After pulling them up and detaching them from the plant I brush off the dirt and laid them out on a burlap sack in the sun for a few hours to cure. Then I moved them to the garage to cure for the next week. Curing allows them to store longer as well as increase in flavor and sweetness.

The Frazier White had a pretty mediocre harvest. The tubers were small and there weren’t very many of them. The flavor isn’t that great either. Most likely won’t be growing these again. 

The Oakleaf had even a worse harvest. It’s a bush type rather than a vining type so it wasn’t expected to have a smaller harvest, but I didn’t expect that small of one. The flavor is markedly better than the Frazier White though. I’m not sure if the reason the harvest was so small because of the variety or because of where we planted it. It wasn’t in the potato bed, but rather the zucchini and tomatoes where it got shaded out.

The Purple, however, outshined both varieties. The tubers are huge and the harvest was large. The flavor is similar to the Oakleaf, but I’m sure they will sweeten up in storage. I think this will be the one we stick with.

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How to Pick a Watermelon

It’s Watermelon season so I figured now is a great time to teach you how to pick the perfect watermelon whether it’s at the store, farmers’ market or in your own backyard. Most people just grab one out of the bin and hope for the best. But nothing can be more disappointing than a lackluster watermelon on a hot summer day. I’ve perfected my watermelon picking skills and have rarely ever been disappointed.

Nice Yellow Spot

Picking a watermelon should not be based on smell like with other types of melons. Let’s face it, they just don’t smell all that much. Instead you want to use sight and touch to pick the perfect watermelon. First you want to find a melon that has distinct markings and a yellow spot. This is the most important part. The spot shouldn’t be cream. It doesn’t have to be a dark or bright yellow, but it needs to be distinctly yellow. Next you want to pick up your watermelon. You want it to be a lot heavier than it looks. Those are the most important traits for a sweet, ripe watermelon. You can also give it a slap and if it makes a “thunk” sound it’s good, but this is a minor characteristic of a ripe watermelon and shouldn’t be solely relied upon as unripe melons can also make the “thunk” sound.

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Seed Resources

I’m a huge proponent of heirloom and open pollinated (OP) seeds. The difference between them and F1 hybrid seeds is that heirlooms and OP seeds can be saved each year and the offspring will be consistent with the parent plants. F1 hybrids cannot produce similar offspring the following year. Heirloom and OP seeds help keep genetic diversity. If a disease or pest comes through, the OPs and Heirlooms have a chance to survive, while F1′s don’t have that ability. Not to mention that there are just so many different Heirlooms and OPs out there. You can get tomatoes in every color of the rainbow, purple beans, beets that look like targets when cut open, white eggplants, broccoli that looks like fractals, white watermelons, and an endless array of flavors, colors and textures.

I’m always trying new varieties, but so far here are some of my favorites:

Spring/Summer Crops:

Beans
Empress Beans – Bush type green bean. One of the most flavorful beans I’ve ever tasted. Good producer, though they get tough if you don’t pick them young enough.
Kentucky Wonder Pole (Old Homestead) – Pole type green bean. Very productive, with good tasting beans. Beans stay tender for a long time.
Cherokee Trail of Tears – long slender pods that can be eaten in the green stage or left to dry having shiny black beans. Pole Habit
Anasazi - Great dry bean with long pods filled with beans. Makes a great soup. Pole habit.
Speckled Cranberry – Very productive dry bean. Pole habit.

Bloody Butcher Corn

Corn:
Bloody Butcher – We LOVE this corn. When the ears are young they can be eaten fresh off the cob. If left to mature they produce these beautiful deep red ears that make a nice purple flour. This is the corn I use for my tortillas. We haven’t had nearly as much success with other varieties compared to Bloody Butcher.

Cucumber:
Japanese Climbing – A very nice slicing cucumber.
Double Yield – An extremely prolific producer of pickling cucumbers.
White Wonder – Definitely a novelty cuke. Nice white cucumbers for pickling or slicing.

Eggplant
Ping Tung – A long slender eggplant with a nice mild flavor.
Rosa Bianca – The beautiful white with lavender stripes fruit is a prolific producer of softball sized eggplants. Now our go-to eggplant.

Melons
Boule d’Or – Sweet, fragrant green flesh with a hard yellow rind. Does not slip (release from the vine)
Delice de Table – Fragrant, orange flesh. A true cantaloupe. Slips when ripe.
Prescott Fond – Incredibly fragrant. When ripe you can smell its fragrance when passing by. Rock melon with sweet orange flesh

Peppers (Hot)
Jalapeno - Very popular. Ranges greatly in heat though.
Poblano (Ancho) – One of our favorites. Great for stews and soups.
Black Hungarian – Purple jalapeno type but not as hot.
Numex Joe E. Parker – This is my go-to roasting chili. The skins easily slide off and they are so flavorful!

Peppers (Sweet)
Marconi Red - Sweet long pepper. Very tasty.
California Wonder – Great green bell pepper.
Orange Bell – One of our favorites. Very sweet.
Purple Beauty – Interesting dark purple bells.

Giant Pink Banana Squash from 1 plant

Winter Squash
Marina di Chioggia – The most amazing, sweet, dry winter squash we have ever eaten. Great for making gnocchi with.
Muscade de Provence – Not only absolutely gorgeous, but good quality flesh.
Pennsylvania Dutch Crookneck Squash - Similar to the common butternut squashes, except these have incredibly long necks, some reaching 2′ long. This squash makes amazing pies. Don’t plant too many unless you REALLY like squash.
Ghost Rider Pumpkin – I love these pumpkins. Like most jack-o-lantern pumpkins, these aren’t good for eating. They do produce the most consistent shaped pumpkins with a bright orange skin.
Howden – If you want big fruits (without all the work to grow giant pumpkins) this is the one to grow! We had one plant last year produce five pumpkins over 60lbs plus lots of smaller pumpkins.
Giant Pink Banana – These were hugely productive for us last year. One plant gave us a ridiculous amount of 20+ lb fruits. They are great keepers – we still have quite a few that are perfectly good for eating.

Summer Squash
Black Beauty Zucchini – The go-to zucchini. Tender and a great producer.
Ronde de Nice - Like a small green pumpkin. Great for stuffing or just sauteed with some butter.

Tomatillos
Green Husk – Large prolific plants of sweet green fruits. Great for salsas and stews.

Tomatoes
Amish Paste – Great tomato for canning.
Black from Tula – Gorgeous black tomato. Tasty flesh is good for fresh slicing and canning.
Brandywine – Large meaty tomatoes that are fantastic on sandwiches.
Hillbilly Potato Leaf – Prolific producer of huge, tasty yellow and orange fruit.
Italian Heirloom – One of the best producers of giant fruits. Great for canning and has little waste.
Martino’s Roma – Great canning tomato.
Power’s Heirloom – Oxheart shaped bright yellow fruit. Great for canning.
Principe Borghese – The standard for sun drying. Prolific small roma type fruits.
Roman Candle – Another bright yellow tomato. Great for salsas and canning.

Watermelons
Orangeglo – Large fruits with bright orange flesh. Very sweet with a distinct flavor that you just can’t buy in stores anymore.
White Wonder – A definite rare find. Small icebox size melons with translucent white flesh. Sweet, but not overly so. Has an incredible, unique flavor.


Fall/Winter Crops:

Beets

Chioggia - A really interesting beet. When cut open it looks like a target with red and white alternating rings.
Golden – These are hands-down my favorite beets. I’ve never been a huge fan of beets until I started growing these. They are incredibly sweet and perfect raw in salads, roasted or pickled.

Broccoli
Calabrese – Our go-to broccoli. Very productive. 

Brussel Sprouts 

I haven’t found a good variety that works for us yet.


January King cabbage

Cabbage
Mammoth Red Rock – Standard Purple Cabbage
Early Jersey Wakefield – A nice early variety.

January King - If anything, this is the most gorgeous cabbage I’ve ever seen. Surprisingly it grows well here. It is difficult to find though – we got our seeds in when we were in the UK.

Carrots
Scarlet Nantes - Our most consistent producer of tender, sweet carrots about 8-12″ long.

Garden Pea
Green Arrow – Prolific producer of long pods. A shelling pea.
Blue podded – A very ornamental variety that produces good dry peas for use in soups and stews.
Amish Snap – Delicious pea with an edible pod.

Garlic
Bogatyr - Large hardneck variety that stores really well.
Czech Broadleaf – Softneck variety that is VERY hot when raw, but mild when cooked.
Shvelisi or Chesnok Red – Great for roasting and baking.
Tochliavri or Red Toch – One of the BEST garlics out there. Very hard to find as it’s very popular and sells out quickly.

Leeks
Giant Musselburgh – Consistent winner in our garden. Good sized leeks with a great flavor. Esp. good in soups.

Lettuce
Cimarron – A red, romaine type with thick, spicy leaves. Seems to be frost tolerant.
Forellenschuss – Tender, mild Romaine type with speckled leaves. Seems to be frost tolerant.
Yugoslavian Red – A tender butterhead type lettuce. Not as frost tolerant as the other too, but well worth growing.

Onions
Ailsa Craig – Very large yellow onion. Up to 2lbs.

Five Color Silverbeet Chard

Long Red Florence – The torpedo shaped red onion seen at Farmers Markets. Great raw and cooked.
Yellow of Parma – Best storage onion we’ve found so far. Good quality.

Spinach
Gigante d’ Inverno – Great producer and a large plant.

Swiss Chard
Five Color Silverbeet – Our favorite. Comes in a rainbow of colors from yellow to white to red.

Sources:

Seed Savers Exchange
A great resource. They are a non-profit organization whose mission is to save the world’s crop diversity. Become a member for $35/year and get 10% off of every order, quarterly magazines and the huge yearbook containing thousands of rare varieties offered by other members. One year there was 85 letter size pages of tomato varieties alone.

Baker Creek Heirlooms Another great resource. Located in Missouri, they also have a storefront in Petaluma, CA. The offer a large catalog.

Territorial Seed Company While they carry a lot of F1 hybrids, they do offer some great heirlooms.

Sustainable Seed CompanyA new company specializing in Heirloom, organic and non-GMO seeds based in Sonoma County, CA.

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The Mushroom Garden



 We raise plants and animals already. We’ve decided to add onto our farm by adding fungi – a new mushroom garden. For those that were at our potluck you probably noticed this small area fenced off between the house and the tower.

It’s a nice small area that we don’t use that spends the vast majority of the day in full shade. Because of this it also stays relatively moist as well.

We started with King Stropharia Mushrooms (Stropharia rugosoannulata). These mushrooms are giant wine red capped fungi that are easily started outside and can give you a perennial crop of mushrooms as long as you take care of it. The most difficult part of growing these was finding hardwood chips or sawdust. They can also be grown on straw but it’s a bit more labor intensive as you have to sterilize the straw in hot water before inoculating it.

Most of the chips available around here are redwood, pine or eucalyptus – all of which are not appropriate due to the oils in the wood. We had to get creative. As luck would have it, when we got Lucy’s new digs, we were also given some animal bedding. The majority of animal bedding is made from pine, but this bedding was Aspen – a hardwood. It was a small amount, not enough to do the bed, so we needed to find more. We were finally able to find large bales of Aspen bedding at a chain pet store.

We sterilized our wheelbarrow, dumped a bale and a half into it and moistened it thoroughly. We then broke up the King Stropharia spawn and mixed it into the shavings. We laid a thick layer down in our new garden and fenced it off to keep the dogs out. We water it once a week to make sure the moisture content stays relatively high.

I would have liked to have put it out in the vegetable garden but it just gets too much sun. However, if you decide to try and raise this fungi in your vegetable garden you’ll get one great benefit from it. A study has shown that this species of mushroom actually kills nematodes like the ones that cause pine wilt.

We didn’t stop at King Stropharia though. Jeanette gave us some Tanoak logs that were calling out to be inoculated. We did two of them with Pearl Oyster spawn. We have one more log that needs a mushroom feeding on it. I just haven’t figured out what kind yet. Fortunately these logs are still very wet so we didn’t have to soak them.

To inoculate these we bought plugs which are inoculated dowels of birch wood. We covered the cut ends of the log with beeswax and then drilled 5/16″ holes 1 1/2″ deep in a diamond pattern around the logs. Using a rubber mallet we hammered the plugs into the holes and then sealed them with more beeswax. We’re keeping these out with the King Stropharia as well. Don’t worry though, we’re not keeping them leaned up against the building. We don’t want any termites getting into the structure!

Now we’ll just have to keep our fingers crossed that we end up with mushrooms this fall.

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