What the Fodder?

eatingHave you seen the new biggest craze in livestock feed?

It takes just about a week to grow and increases your feed by up to 6x* by weight. It’s highly nutritious and provides 20% protein by dry weight. You can feed it to poultry, rabbits, ruminants, horses, just about any grass-loving livestock animal around.

When my friend, Brande, first told me about it I wasn’t so sure. I had heard great things about it but had only seen these huge, incredibly expensive setups for large livestock operations. I hadn’t even thought that it was possible to do fodder without one of these setups.

What in the hell was I thinking? Nowadays everything can be done DIY so why couldn’t making fodder? It would just require a bit more labor on my part.

dry

Cleaned barley with hulls intact (unhulled)

There are really only about 3 things you absolutely have to have: seed, water and planting trays with drainage holes. There’s no need for soil or fertilizer. Because we have a mild climate I’m just growing mine outside on a table. The best seed to use is barley as it has the highest nutrition and protein of all the other grain seeds. I can get an 80lb bag of barley for just over $18. You can try to find hulled barley but I find that unhulled seems to work fine. When watering, I recapture the water that drains to reuse.

soaking

Soaking barley in a bucket

You only want to put about a 1/2″ of barley in your tray. It really does swell up and I found that with 3lbs of barley the tray was busting out at the walls. Before you start with making fodder you need to soak the barley for 6-8 hours in water. This degrades germination inhibitors in the seeds (this is why you should also soak peas and legumes before planting). You want to cover the barley with enough water so that when it expands it remains covered.

Day1

Just starting to germinate.

Once your soaking is over pour the seed and water into your tray and then rinse the seed. Cover your tray so that it remains dark to help encourage germination. Above is the day after soaking. Small root tips begin to show up at the ends of the seed.

Day2

At this point you’ll begin to see the layer of seeds expand in size.

Water your seed 2-3 times a day. You want to keep it from drying out too much. By the second day after soaking you’ll start to see more of the roots.

day3

Time to uncover the seed so that it gets light. I simply use a burlap sac to cover the trays.

The following day small bits of green will poke their heads out of the layer of seeds and roots. It will soon be growing so fast you can almost watch it. By now you can take the cover off because you want the grass blades to develop chlorophyll and energy.

Day4

A nice green layer is beginning to form.

On the fourth day after soaking you’ll be seeing the beginning of a nice little green carpet. It’s not much yet but the following day you’ll be amazed.

Day5

Once it reaches this point it grows quickly.

Day 5 and it’s starting to look like turf. Keep watering at least twice a day.

Day6

From day 6 to day 7 the fodder is the most nutritious.

By day 6 you’re almost ready to feed it. Supposedly this is when the nutrition of the grass begins to peak.

mat

Roots, seed and leaf in one tidy package.

On day 7 it’s time to feed the fodder. You can see here the awesome layer of roots, seeds and grass. Poultry and ruminants will consume all these parts. Rabbits generally only like the greens. I started with 3lbs of seed and produced nearly 15lbs of fodder. It took my hens a couple of days to eat one tray’s worth of fodder. If you start a new tray ever day or every couple of days you’ll have a constant supply of fodder to feed.

*I’ve only seen about a 5x increase but I’ve heard that 6x is also possible.

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What I’ve Learned About Turkeys

One Big Happy Family

One Big Happy Family

Turkeys. They aren’t nearly as popular as chickens so info on them can be difficult to find. Heritage turkey info is even harder to find because even fewer people raise them and there are differences in raising them compared to the Broad Breasted breeds. Fortunately Backyardchickens.com has a forum for turkeys, which helps immensely. I also have a book called Not Just for Christmas that has some info, though I find it rather lacking. A Storey Guide might be better but I haven’t reviewed the one for turkeys. For us, turkeys have basically been a “learn as you go” experience. What I have learned is  the following(this applies to heritage breeds which is what I have experience with):

1. Turkeys are not instinctual. They must learn behaviors. This is especially important when hand raising poults because unlike chicks, they do not automatically know what food is. They will eat their bedding, which can be fatal. To avoid this problem we used feed as bedding. Expensive but kept us from losing them. We also put shiny marbles in their water. If you have a hen raising them this isn’t an issue because mom will teach them. If they don’t have a mom they will imprint on whatever living creature is around them the most. For us, this ended up being our dog.
2. They are attracted to the color red so we used a red heat lamp to avoid cannibalism in case of an injury. Ours had a tendency to rip off their claws so this was helpful.
3. The people at the feed store were wrong. Chicken and turkey feed are not interchangeable. Turkeys need high protein feed or they risk get twisted legs. Chick feed is not high enough for the poults and doesn’t have the right nutrients. Use a turkey starter or a gamebird starter. Same goes for adult birds. They need a higher protein feed as well. Because our turkeys and chickens live together we have everyone on turkey and/or gamebird depending on what is available. I also find that the higher protein feed helps keep our chickens from egg eating. I just make sure to supplement with oystershell. If breeding turkeys, I found that chicken feeds cause deficiency-related deformities in the chicks.
4. Most say not to house chickens and turkeys together because chickens can carry a disease called blackhead that doesn’t affect them but is fatal to turkeys. There is some literature out there that says the benefit of keeping turkeys and chickens together is that it helps naturally vaccinate chickens against Marek’s. The Marek’s vaccine is actually Turkey Mareks which causes no symptoms in turkeys. With the two living together they pass it back and forth, thus making the chickens immune to the chicken version. Or at least that’s the story. You have to make the decision on what you want to do.
5. Coop requirements are 6 sf of floor space per bird, perches 18-30″ off the ground with 10-15″ of perch per bird. I find that turkeys prefer open air housing. Ours like to perch in the fenced chicken run rather than in the coop itself. If you plan to breed you’ll need nest boxes – old tires work well for this.
6. I don’t have any hard numbers on pasture size but I would say probably 3x that for the same number of chickens. Turkeys are really good foragers but much less damaging than chickens. Unless you’re talking about onions. Keep them away from garlic, onion and chives or you won’t have any left.
7. Poults and young birds are LOUD. Louder than you ever thought possible. However, I found hen-raised birds to make hardly any noise at all. The adults only make a lot of noise when new people are around. Makes for great watchdogs.
8.Turkeys fly pretty well. If you don’t keep them in a completely enclosed run you must keep their wings clipped. When they are younger this means clipping once a week as their wing feathers grow pretty fast.
9. They don’t necessarily like to sleep where they are supposed to. We have to herd them into their coop nearly every night. By the way, herding turkeys is worse than herding cats. You want them to go left, they look like they’re going to comply and then they fake you out and run between your legs.
10. In the spring your hens will start to lay down and kind of spread out their wings a bit. They won’t get up and run away from you either. When I first saw this I had no idea what was going on and I thought they were sick. Nope, not sick. They were just lookin’ for a bit of lovin’.
11. They do not lay eggs for most of the year. Basically they lay in the spring until they have a clutch. If they successfully hatch the clutch they most likely are done laying for the year. Sometimes, they will try for a second clutch if the first doesn’t hatch successfully.
12. The are ridiculously strong. More than once I’ve wondered if my nose was broken after trying to carry one and they got a wing loose. Also beware the loose, just clipped wing. I’ve had more than a few facial cuts from these.
Do you have turkey advice?
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The Best Turkey You’ll Ever Eat!

It’s November and we know what that means! Thanksgiving will be here any day now so I’m reposting this recipe because it IS that good. This year we have our own homegrown turkey and I can’t wait to do this with it.

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I have finally perfected our Turkey Recipe! It takes some preparation, but in the end it was more than worth the effort!

This recipe will work for a 16-25lb turkey. Make sure the bird is completely thawed the day before you plan to cook it because brining it requires at least 12 hours.

Ingredients:

For Brine:
1 gallon unsweetened apple juice
3/4 cup salt
3/4 cup granulated sugar
6-8 slices of ginger
2 Tbs peppercorns
2 Tbs allspice berries
2 Tbs whole cloves
2 bay leaves

Combine all ingredients in a large sauce pan. Stir in salt and sugar. Bring to a boil for 3 minutes and then allow to cool completely.

We use a large orange “water cooler” that we have designated just for brining similar to this one:
Unwrap the thawed turkey, remove the giblets and place neck end down into clean cooler. Pour cooled brine over the bird. Add water until the bird is completely submerged. Add a bunch of ice on top to keep cool. Put lid on cooler and leave undisturbed for at least 12 hours.

For Roasting:

1/4 lb butter (1 stick) cut into pats
2 Tbs chopped fresh rosemary
2 Tbs chopped fresh Thyme
2 Tbs chopped fresh Oregano
2 cups chicken broth
Olive Oil

1. Remove bird from brine and let brine drain out of cavity. Don’t rinse bird.
2. Coat roasting pan with olive oil and place bird breast side up in it.
3. Using your hands separate skin from breast and legs. Rub the chopped herbs onto the meat.
4. Place the cut pats of butter under the skin in various locations, including the legs. Pour chicken broth over bird.
5. Cover bird with lid of pan or foil and place in a preheated oven at 350 deg.
6. Roast for two hours basting every hour. Remove foil and allow bird to brown, basting every 20 min.
7. Continue to roast bird until interior temp reaches 165 deg. Can range from 1-2 additional hours depending on whether the bird is stuffed. Make sure when taking the temp that the thermometer is through the thickest part of the breast and is not touching bone.

This recipe will give you an incredibly moist flavorful bird that is amazingly tender.

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All About Poop – Using Manure in the Garden

This afternoon while I was prepping a new bed for garlic it dawned on me that I should probably pay attention to which manure and bedding I add to it. Being a root vegetable I didn’t want to add high nitrogen to the bed because that would stimulate too much top growth and the energy of the plant wouldn’t be used for making those big, juicy cloves on the bulb.What I would need is a manure that helps promote root growth. Ideally this would be a manure that was high in phosphorus but lower in nitrogen. Potassium is the third micronutrient and is used by the plant for overall vigor and disease resistance so it would be OK if this was high as well.

One of the benefits to keeping all of our animals in separate housing is that I can pick and choose who has the most appropriate manure for each bed. I can also choose when in the growing season I can apply each manure. In general chicken, turkey and goat are considered “hot” and need to be composted first. We usually put these down right after harvest and let them sit until we plant again. Rabbit, on the other hand, does not need to be composted first so we like to use this during the growing season. Additionally, the bedding that is mixed in with the manures really helps improve our heavy clay soil.

Here are the average numbers for common livestock manures that are readily accessible to us. The numbers correspond with N-P-K (Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium) and are percent of dry weight.

Goat 1.5 – 1.5 – 3.0

*Horse 2.3 – 0.9 – 1.7

Poultry 3.2 – 5.2 – 1.8

Rabbit 2.4 – 1.4 – 0.6

Steer 1.7 – 1.2 – 3.0

If you want to get really technical determining how much of each type of manures you should add you can do some calculations. Since growing food isn’t a business for us it’s not really worth it to have all the manure sent out to have it tested and then weigh everything before applying the manure. For home garden it can be more of an approximation based on the needs of different crops and what the different manures contain.

What I chose to use for the garlic was the old bedding from the goat yard that also included chicken manure from when the chickens were housed with them. This will be what I use for root vegetables. Once it runs out then I’ll mix the poultry and goat manure together to reach the same numbers. For other crops here is what I’ll be using where. (Nutrient requirements based on info in The Vegetable Gardener’s Bible)

Nutrient Requirements” N=high; P=high; K=high

Combination of poultry and rabbit manure (or poultry and horse)

  • Artichokes
  • Broccoli
  • Cabbage
  • Cauliflower
  • Celery
  • Corn
  • Dill
  • Lettuce
  • Peppers
  • Potatoes
  • Tomatoes

Nutrient Requirements” N=high; P=moderate; K=moderate

Rabbit manure (or horse)

  • Asparagus
  • Mustard
  • Summer Squash
  • Winter Squash

Nutrient Requirements” N=high; P=low; K=low

Rabbit manure (or horse)

  • Carrots
  • Parnips

Nutrient Requirements” N=moderate; P=moderate; K=moderate

Combination of poultry and goat manure (or poultry and steer)

  • Garlic
  • Chives
  • Jerusalem Artichokes
  • Kale
  • Kohlrabi
  • Leeks
  • Okra
  • Onions
  • Parsley
  • Spinach
  • Strawberries

Nutrient Requirements” N=moderate; P=high; K=high

Goat manure (or steer)

  • Brussels Sprouts
  • Cucumber
  • Eggplant

Nutrient Requirements” N=moderate; P=low; K=low

Rabbit manure (or horse)

  • Fennel

Nutrient Requirements” N=low; P=high; K=high

Goat manure (or steer)

  • Melons
  • Watermelons

Nutrient Requirements” N=low; P=moderate; K=moderate

Goat manure (or steer)

  • Bush Beans
  • Pole Beans
  • Beets
  • Swiss Chard

Nutrient Requirements” N=low; P=low; K=low

Light on the goat manure (or steer)

  • Arugula
  •  Basil
  • Cilantro
  • Horseradish
  • Marjoram
  • Oregano
  • Peas
  • Radishes
  • Rhubarb
  • Sage
  • Sunflowers
  • Sweet Potatoes
  • Tarragon
  • Tomatillos
  • Turnips

Of course nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are not the only nutrients plants need, nor are they only nutrients found in manure. Manure also contains calcium, magnesium, zinc, sulfur and various levels of other nutrients. Composted manure also contains a lot of beneficial microorganisms which help break down nutrients and make them available to plants. The addition of carbon (bedding) makes the perfect mix of nitrogen and carbon for composting. It wasn’t until we got chickens and started adding their bedding to our compost pile were we finally able to get it hot. Our livestock manure is actually mixed in with composted kitchen scraps and yard waste to add another level of nutrients.

It’s not just about nutrients when it comes to manure and compost. The addition of it greatly improves the soil structure such as loosening heavy clay soil or increasing water retention in sandy soils. In my opinion adding compost and/or manure is really the only way to go when trying to improve your soil. You just can’t have healthy, nutritious food without healthy soil.

*Horse manure is commonly available for free or very low cost at boarding stables. Be aware, however, that if the animals are pastured it could be high in weed seeds unless it is properly composted at a high enough temperature.

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The Turkey Threshold

Turkeys are awesome. They are charming and personable. I love having turkeys. As I’ve said before, Hank is one of my favorite pets. Yes, we have turkeys for pets. Duke, the she that we thought was a he, is the more vocal of the bunch and also the most dominant. She is also prone to shenanigans. Tater is the most submissive and shy one. She hangs back in the crowd.

But having three pet turkeys is completely different than raising additional turkeys for meat. They lose their charming tendencies. They fight relentlessly with each other regardless of how much space they have – and here they have a lot of space. The older ones particularly enjoy picking on the smaller ones so we had to separate them into smaller flocks to keep everyone safe. The “tots” are living with Hank, Duke and Tater because they are the bigger troublemakers. Hank, being the dominant male, seems to have a calming influence on them and keeps them from fighting excessively with each other. Duke’s offspring live with our chickens since they are smaller. Mr. Jenkins, our rooster, is larger than they are so he easily keeps them in line.

There is also the whole lot more maintenance involved. Wing clipping, a totally painless procedure involving trimming feathers (similar to trimming your fingernails) is a regular occurrence. Because they are still growing, so are their feathers. This means we have to clip their wings about every 10 days. With the adult birds (except for Hank who is too big to fly so he gets to keep his feathers intact) you only need to clip once a year, which is a lot handier since they are such large, powerful animals. I don’t even know how many shirts of mine they have destroyed with their feet from kicking me when I pick them up.

Surprisingly though they don’t eat much feed. This could be because they are good foragers, while also being a lot easier on the landscape compared to chickens. While they love to give themselves a good dust bath they aren’t prone to scratching like chickens. And while chickens will continue to eat a plant down to a nub, turkeys are more like drive-by eaters. A nibble from this plant and they move on to the next. Well, except for grapes. They nearly killed our grape vines. And they really love blackberries, but just the fruit.

Now just to be clear, the turkeys we have are not the big Butterball turkeys (which were just exposed by Mercy for Animals as being HEAVILY abused – Warning: Graphic) you get at the store. They don’t grow so fast they have leg, joint and heart problems and they don’t grow so big that they can’t naturally mate. No, what we have are heritage breed turkeys. They are smaller, don’t have gigantic breasts and have kept their natural behaviors, which includes being a lot more active, hence the shenanigans. We also gave quite a few away to be raised by friends so we had substantially less that what actually hatched.

Will we continue raising turkeys for meat? Yes, but we will only be breeding one of our hens next year instead of both so we have fewer to deal with.

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A Garden for the Birds (and the Bees) Part 2

We’re moving forward in our planning for part of our backyard. Last week I wrote about how we’re going to update our patio area since it’s pretty much nothing but dirt and birds. I am using the book Free-Range Chicken Gardens to help plan our new garden. Here’s the plan view exhibit of what it currently looks like.

We’ve got big plans for this area. Of course we can’t do all of it at once but it’s something that eventually will look great. Free-Range Chicken Gardens has a great section specifically on planning your garden design even if you don’t have any experience doing any type of design. She starts with drawing out your property lines, house footprint, out buildings and other existing elements that will remain. She then directs you to make a wish list of what you want to include in your new plan. She even gets into details such as sun exposure, microclimates and areas of concern. Then you want to show other elements including the chicken coop, run and paddocks, trees, planting beds, lawn area, pathways and patios. This is our plan:

The patio is keeping it’s current configuration but we’re going to be building and adding elements on the patio to break up the large expanse of paving. Against the tower we’ll be adding an outdoor kitchen which will include a sink, barbecue, refrigerator, kegerator, and bar seating. We’ll also be building an arbor over a large portion of the patio to keep this area dry along with the dining table. In addition we’ll be building a cob oven. Flanking each side of the path out to the vegetable garden will be two 4′ diameter galvanized tanks with fruit trees planted in them. These will help add more shade and block the evening sun on those hot days. Offset 2′ from the patio and path will be a 4′ fence to keep the chickens corralled off the patio. The fence will be planted with edible vines such as Maypop passion fruit. There will also be vines such as grape and kiwi planted on the coop run fencing to produce a shady oasis inside the coop. The light green area will be seeded with chicken pasture seed in the early spring and then we’ll also include some chicken/turkey hardy shrubs between our vegetable garden fence and Turkey Town. The gate to the right of the chicken coop is access to the orchard pasture for the chickens and turkeys which will also be seeded with the chicken pasture seed but I’m not showing it here to save space. It’s an additional 20′x50′ area. The end of the path to the vegetable garden will have an arbor for more edible vines such as Scarlet Runners which are perennial here. In the darker green area on the left will be our chicken and medicinal garden. The chickens will have occasional access to this area for foraging. Additionally, the plants chosen for the chicken/medicinal garden are also bee friendly.

This plan will not be implemented all at once, of course. Just like every other project around here, it will be a work in progress so I’ll definitely continue to post on it. The next phase will be the planting plan. Next week I will post about the plants I’ve chosen and why and what the planting layout will look like. If I’m feeling extra saucy I may even include a perspective drawing.

 

 

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Shelter in Place

Yesterday there was an explosion followed by a fire at a local refinery. Fortunately for us the plume of smoke decided to travel in the exact opposite direction of where we live. We couldn’t even see it off in the distance. Which is a good thing for us. Not so good for those that were in its path. They had to shelter in place.

It did get me thinking though. If the winds were going in the other direction could we mitigate for such an event? Maybe but it would require some work. Last year Farmer Lynda wrote a great post right after the Fukushima meltdown about the tough decisions she would have to make if there was nuclear fallout.

The turkeys, though they would be unhappy about it, could be kept safe in Turkey Town. The chickens would be tricky because we’d have to quickly figure out a way to keep them confined to their indoor coop (which opens up to their yard directly). Not impossible, but it would take a little bit of time. The goats have plenty of indoor space that they could be confined to easily without much work on our part. Probably the best option would be to throw the chickens in with the goats temporarily – it’s not like they haven’t lived together before. The rabbits could pose a problem. The bottom of the rabbitry is open to allow their waste to fall away from them. Probably the best option would be to move them inside – if it’s not too hot outside.  All of our animal feed is safely stored in metal trashcans – most of which is actually indoors. Hay is also stored inside, as is bedding materials.

The vegetables and fruits are another matter entirely. How do we keep them from being covered in dangerous particulates? We’d probably need to cover everything if we can. That which can’t be covered would require us to wash and peel them or remove the outer leaves, like on cabbage, before using them. Root vegetable would remain relatively safe though. Veggies that can’t be peeled like beans, lettuce and spinach would be the priorities for covering since they aren’t easily peeled.

I’m foreseeing some small changes around here to accommodate possible emergencies.

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Hunting 103: Habitat, Schmabitat

Conservation. Do you know the meaning of the word? It really chaps my hide when I get lumped into a group of ‘Environmentalists’. I am a Conservationist. I want to USE my habitat, not wrap it up in a cute little box and put it on my Shrine of No Change and worship it from afar. I want to be an active participant, and be a contributing member of said habitat.  If you are or want to be a hunter, you are a conservationist. You got to USE it, or LOSE it! If we are not out there, outdoors, using a resource, then it does not have value.  Humans have been affecting their habitat (the world) for over 40,000 years in our current (Homo sapien) form. Do you think our involvement is somewhat valuable? Yep, I do too. So these ‘Environmentalists’ who push us to ‘restore’ areas to pre-Gold Rush habitat and ‘preserve’ them by not allowing … well I hate to tell you this but the Native Americans that were here before us white people were manipulating habitat for centuries beforehand. So pulling that ‘humans are bad to the environment’ crap does not fly with me. We should use it, but use it wisely and sustainably. Which involves hunting.

Some facts: Hunters have contributed more towards conservation and habitat restoration and improvement than any other environmental group, combined. Hunting has never caused or contributed to an animal going extinct. MARKET hunting has. At the turn of the 20th century, market hunting practiced and led to species like the Passenger Pigeon going extinct. Market hunting is when people kill as many animals as possible to sell the carcasses for table meat. Market hunting is illegal in the United States, thanks to recreational hunters noticing wildlife populations being depleted. This caused the first games laws and State Wildlife departments to be formed. So next time you enjoy seeing a family of deer in the field, or a flock of ducks take to wing, thank a hunter.

There is this thing called Compensatory Mortality. This is an essential component to Hunting Theory (yes, this is taught in the universities, it is a real thing, not just a bunch of hicks wanting to kill stuff). Basically, as has been shown by almost all Adult to Young ratios found in monitoring surveys across the globe…. Animals reproduce waaay more young than they need. There is a built-in over-production of young because, well frankly, shit happens.

If you are some badass Bambi-momma deer, you want to pass on your genes. How do you guarantee this will happen, given all the cliffs, ravines, lion dens, bear mouths (etc etc) that Bambi can find trouble in? Well you double your bet. You do this by calving more than one offspring, to be your little genome-packet of the future. The problem with this is that, depending on the habitat, your bet could be a double-winner. Yes, great for your genes, but shitty for the habitat. Unless there is super-awesome habitat, too many Bambii (plural for Bambi right?) eat all the habitat (or trample it, or overgraze so there is less habitat the next year) and all the extra Bambii die from starvation. Hunting is used by wildlife managers to prevent this, by keeping populations at a steady level, they prevent huge fluctuations that would adversely affect habitat, and the longevity of a piece of habitat to sustainably support different populations of animals, and prevent possible exinction-level events. This is not just for huntable species by the way. The management of huntable species benefits other non-game species because the big component of  Wildlife Management is Habitat Management.

A lot of people get into Wildlife Management thinking they will not have to deal with people, that it’s all about the furries and fuzzies and featheries. Oooh that is sooo false. What they don’t tell you (I’m pretty sure this is intentional) is that animals need plants, and basically all animal/wildlife management is habitat management. Which means plants. Which means, as my botany professor put it, you have to confront and overcome the “Green Blurs”. So if you know what plants your prey eats, that is GREAT! But you also want to know what other plants are utilized during the different life stages. What kind of habitat do deer prefer to give birth in? What type of shrubs to they prefer to browse on? What types of shrubs do they need to bed down in during the day and the night? What is good cover, but not too dense so deer can see and escape from predators? Stuff like that.

Within habitat there are 5 essential components for every animal:  Food, Water, Cover, Space, and Arrangement. Some animals are flexible in their requirements for these elements. We call those Generalists. A good example is the turkey. The Turkey eats a wide variety of things, both plants and animals. In fact most game birds prefer a diet that includes invertebrates (bugs to the rest of us), and in fact, studies have shown that in some game birds, up to 90% of the diet of young is invertebrates, and it’s only when they reach ‘teenager’ years that they start selecting plant material over bugs. But Turkeys like to roost at night, so they need somewhat large trees near grassy areas with bug and forb (small non-grass plants) production, and they water in the morning, so the trees need to be near a water source. Food, Water, Cover, Space, and Arrangement.

Animals that are very specific about their habitat needs are called Specialists. Most of the animals that you hear about being ‘Endangered’ or ‘Threatened’ are Specialists. This is because there is some aspect of their habitat they are less flexible about and at some point we humans did something to affect that aspect. Or some other animal or element has affected the habitat. At any rate, some aspect of the Food, Water, Cover, Space, and Arrangement has been affected, and it interferes with the animals’ success in surviving or passing on the gene-packet we call young. They might be more susceptible to predation, or their mating might be interrupted, or young survival has been pushed out of whack. For whatever reason, these animals evolved in very specific conditions and the only way to fix it is to figure out WHAT is going wrong (not always easy and usually involves a lot of research dollars with minimal effect initially). Generally speaking, these animals are not hunted, because their populations could not sustain the pressure. Hence the reason we do not have Spotted Owl Tacos as a local delicacy.

Next time- Hunting 104: Yes you CAN hunt in a Prius!

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Goats Will Mow Your Lawn and Other Livestock Myths

Out of all the grass clippings Daisy only wanted the twig

Myth: Goats will mow your lawn.

I see this one all the time. I’ve been asked about it, I’ve heard well meaning people tell other people. It’s just one of those misconceptions that everyone seems to repeat. The “goat services” don’t really help this rumor either. Goats are not very good at mowing your lawn. The reason the “goat services” have goats grazing is because that’s all they offer the goats to eat. Also, the grass they are usually eating starts out really tall, which they like. What goats are best for is eliminating invasive plants like Scotch broom, Himalayan blackberry, and kudzu. I am now seeing changes in the goat services which are now including sheep.

Goats are browsers rather than grazers like sheep. They prefer to eat food that’s above their shoulder height. My goats won’t even eat food that is touching the ground. We have a little pasture area for our goats. They pretty much ignore it until it’s taller than them and then they will munch it down to about knee level. It’s uneven and quite unattractive so if you’re looking for a nicely trimmed lawn goats aren’t going to do the trick. But they’ll have no problem pruning destroying your roses. The benefit of having browers is that they aren’t eating off of the ground exposing themselves to parasites. The downside is that they will eat all of your plants and trees if they get out.

Myth: Turkeys are dumb.

Well, maybe some turkeys are dumb like the broad-breasted industrial turkeys. But heritage turkeys? Not that dumb actually. Sure the poults don’t know what food is and will ingest their litter until they die. I swear repeatedly and loudly when I have to herd them somewhere, which is pretty much every day – worse than herding cats by a long shot. But here’s the thing with turkeys – they aren’t instinctual like chickens. Instead they learn from their mother (or you if you are hand raising them). Poults also have really poor eyesight when they are young so you have to take certain precautions to keep them from ingesting stuff they shouldn’t if you don’t have their mom caring for them. Shiny marbles in their feed help as does using feed for litter until they are eating out of their feeder regularly.

Myth: Chickens need a rooster to lay an egg.

A chicken is going to lay an egg no matter what. The only thing a rooster determines is if that egg is fertile or not. Think of it as a chicken getting her period every time she lays an egg. Sounds pretty miserable to me.

Myth: Goats will eat anything and everything.

I remember this storybook when I was a child about a goat that ate tin cans. A goat will probably mouth a tin can but won’t ingest it. Not having fingers and being curious animals, goats use their mouths to feel stuff like we do with our hands. Feeling stuff and chewing on stuff does not mean that they eat everything. They can be quite picky in reality.

Cornish X on the left, heritage bird on the rightMyth: Meat chickens are genetically engineered and fed hormones and antibiotics to grow so large.

The Cornish X – the typical commercial meat chicken breed – is simply a hybrid breed made up of a cross of White Cornish and White Plymouth Rock breeds. It’s not a GMO but simply the result of specialized proprietary breeding lines using those two breeds. I’ve raised them organically (no medications, hormones or antibiotics) and they still grow freakishly fast.

Myth: Livestock will bring rats.

Just like if you leave out cat and dog food, if you leave out livestock feed the rats will come. Keeping the feed out of their reach by storing feed in metal cans with rodent-proof lids and hanging feeders in places that rats can’t access (from the ceiling of the coop and at least 9″ off the ground) or only feeding what can be immediately consumed you shouldn’t have a problem. Plus chickens will kill rodents. Restaurants, grocery stores and your garbage can are much larger concerns in regards to attracting rodents.

None of these bees attempted to sting me even though we were in their hive

Myth: Bees will harass you and sting you.

Bees would actually prefer not to sting you. A bee only gets one shot and if you aren’t bothering them (stepping on them or threatening their hive) they’ll leave you alone. Wasps, yellow jackets and Africanized bees are a different story and can be quite aggressive. But the honey bee is easy to live with. I regularly do maintenance around the hives in my normal clothes with no issue. The chickens like to take dust baths and sit in the shade under them.

 

 

 

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Update on the Tater Tots…and Hank the Tank

One Big Happy Family

The Tater Tots are growing really fast. They’re just about 4 weeks old now and gaining more and more independence. Where they once followed mom closely they now wander further away. Tater is still very protective of them and comes running when a wayward poult cries but it’s much less often now than it was a couple of weeks ago.

Growing Up

Three of the 9 poults have decided that they no longer need to sleep under mom at night. Putting them away for the evening I walked into Turkey Town to find 3 of them roosting on the 4′ high roost. Did I mention the poults can fly now? They’re pretty good at it and we’ll be needing to clip their wings soon to save my onions from guaranteed destruction.

It’s no secret that Hank is one of my favorites around here. I just love that big ol’ lumbering tom. Hank has now taken an active role as well. Unlike many toms he’s not the least bit aggressive with them and is very careful when walking around them. I was hesitant for a long while to allow the poults out and about with Tater mainly because I was worried of what Hank would do. But he’s such a mellow and sweet bird I should have known better. Mom allows him to hang around, unlike any errant chicken that comes too close. I will sometimes find Hank with them while Tater is in Turkey Town eating. The poults don’t seem to worry as long as they can see at least one of them.

Since the hens went broody we’ve been keeping Hank in Chicken City at night so we didn’t have to worry about him trampling the eggs or disturbing the hens. One of the awesome things about Hank is he always knows where he’s supposed to sleep, unlike the turkey hens who can never figure it out and we always end up having to hunt down and herd them into Turkey Town (though we’ve gotten a reprieve with the poults being around). So for weeks he’s been going in to Chicken City at dusk. Two nights ago I went to put the turkeys to bed and Hank was laying in the doorway like a sentry. Because he’s been spending more time safely with the poults I decided to let him stay there.

Showin' the kids how it's done

Yesterday afternoon I came out and caught Hank giving himself a dust bath and sunning himself with the poults. Many of them you can’t see because they are right on the other side of him bathing. Last night he slept next to Tater and then this morning while he was laying in the yard out popped two poults from underneath him.

Hank has definitely spoiled us. I’ve heard horror stories about aggressive toms but Hank is nothing but the opposite.

 

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