What I’ve Learned About Turkeys

One Big Happy Family

One Big Happy Family

Turkeys. They aren’t nearly as popular as chickens so info on them can be difficult to find. Heritage turkey info is even harder to find because even fewer people raise them and there are differences in raising them compared to the Broad Breasted breeds. Fortunately Backyardchickens.com has a forum for turkeys, which helps immensely. I also have a book called Not Just for Christmas that has some info, though I find it rather lacking. A Storey Guide might be better but I haven’t reviewed the one for turkeys. For us, turkeys have basically been a “learn as you go” experience. What I have learned is  the following(this applies to heritage breeds which is what I have experience with):

1. Turkeys are not instinctual. They must learn behaviors. This is especially important when hand raising poults because unlike chicks, they do not automatically know what food is. They will eat their bedding, which can be fatal. To avoid this problem we used feed as bedding. Expensive but kept us from losing them. We also put shiny marbles in their water. If you have a hen raising them this isn’t an issue because mom will teach them. If they don’t have a mom they will imprint on whatever living creature is around them the most. For us, this ended up being our dog.
2. They are attracted to the color red so we used a red heat lamp to avoid cannibalism in case of an injury. Ours had a tendency to rip off their claws so this was helpful.
3. The people at the feed store were wrong. Chicken and turkey feed are not interchangeable. Turkeys need high protein feed or they risk get twisted legs. Chick feed is not high enough for the poults and doesn’t have the right nutrients. Use a turkey starter or a gamebird starter. Same goes for adult birds. They need a higher protein feed as well. Because our turkeys and chickens live together we have everyone on turkey and/or gamebird depending on what is available. I also find that the higher protein feed helps keep our chickens from egg eating. I just make sure to supplement with oystershell. If breeding turkeys, I found that chicken feeds cause deficiency-related deformities in the chicks.
4. Most say not to house chickens and turkeys together because chickens can carry a disease called blackhead that doesn’t affect them but is fatal to turkeys. There is some literature out there that says the benefit of keeping turkeys and chickens together is that it helps naturally vaccinate chickens against Marek’s. The Marek’s vaccine is actually Turkey Mareks which causes no symptoms in turkeys. With the two living together they pass it back and forth, thus making the chickens immune to the chicken version. Or at least that’s the story. You have to make the decision on what you want to do.
5. Coop requirements are 6 sf of floor space per bird, perches 18-30″ off the ground with 10-15″ of perch per bird. I find that turkeys prefer open air housing. Ours like to perch in the fenced chicken run rather than in the coop itself. If you plan to breed you’ll need nest boxes – old tires work well for this.
6. I don’t have any hard numbers on pasture size but I would say probably 3x that for the same number of chickens. Turkeys are really good foragers but much less damaging than chickens. Unless you’re talking about onions. Keep them away from garlic, onion and chives or you won’t have any left.
7. Poults and young birds are LOUD. Louder than you ever thought possible. However, I found hen-raised birds to make hardly any noise at all. The adults only make a lot of noise when new people are around. Makes for great watchdogs.
8.Turkeys fly pretty well. If you don’t keep them in a completely enclosed run you must keep their wings clipped. When they are younger this means clipping once a week as their wing feathers grow pretty fast.
9. They don’t necessarily like to sleep where they are supposed to. We have to herd them into their coop nearly every night. By the way, herding turkeys is worse than herding cats. You want them to go left, they look like they’re going to comply and then they fake you out and run between your legs.
10. In the spring your hens will start to lay down and kind of spread out their wings a bit. They won’t get up and run away from you either. When I first saw this I had no idea what was going on and I thought they were sick. Nope, not sick. They were just lookin’ for a bit of lovin’.
11. They do not lay eggs for most of the year. Basically they lay in the spring until they have a clutch. If they successfully hatch the clutch they most likely are done laying for the year. Sometimes, they will try for a second clutch if the first doesn’t hatch successfully.
12. The are ridiculously strong. More than once I’ve wondered if my nose was broken after trying to carry one and they got a wing loose. Also beware the loose, just clipped wing. I’ve had more than a few facial cuts from these.
Do you have turkey advice?
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Shelter in Place

Yesterday there was an explosion followed by a fire at a local refinery. Fortunately for us the plume of smoke decided to travel in the exact opposite direction of where we live. We couldn’t even see it off in the distance. Which is a good thing for us. Not so good for those that were in its path. They had to shelter in place.

It did get me thinking though. If the winds were going in the other direction could we mitigate for such an event? Maybe but it would require some work. Last year Farmer Lynda wrote a great post right after the Fukushima meltdown about the tough decisions she would have to make if there was nuclear fallout.

The turkeys, though they would be unhappy about it, could be kept safe in Turkey Town. The chickens would be tricky because we’d have to quickly figure out a way to keep them confined to their indoor coop (which opens up to their yard directly). Not impossible, but it would take a little bit of time. The goats have plenty of indoor space that they could be confined to easily without much work on our part. Probably the best option would be to throw the chickens in with the goats temporarily – it’s not like they haven’t lived together before. The rabbits could pose a problem. The bottom of the rabbitry is open to allow their waste to fall away from them. Probably the best option would be to move them inside – if it’s not too hot outside.  All of our animal feed is safely stored in metal trashcans – most of which is actually indoors. Hay is also stored inside, as is bedding materials.

The vegetables and fruits are another matter entirely. How do we keep them from being covered in dangerous particulates? We’d probably need to cover everything if we can. That which can’t be covered would require us to wash and peel them or remove the outer leaves, like on cabbage, before using them. Root vegetable would remain relatively safe though. Veggies that can’t be peeled like beans, lettuce and spinach would be the priorities for covering since they aren’t easily peeled.

I’m foreseeing some small changes around here to accommodate possible emergencies.

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We’ve Got Tater Tots!*

Hank’s a daddy. Gratuitous cuteness indeed! Tater’s clutch is hatching. The little Blue Slate poults are making themselves known. They all look great so far – healthy and active. There’s 7 here in the photo (you can just barely see #7′s beak poking out under Tater’s tails), but there are definitely more underneath her. We won’t know for sure how many she has until she gets off the nest with them. This is the first time we’ve been able to get a hen to hatch her own eggs (we’ve tried 3 times before this) so we’re super excited.

Hank is a Self Blue (Lavender) and both of our hens are Splash (all the same breed it’s just the coloring this refers to).  You can see the poults with more gray on them will be Splash (gray with black speckles like mom) and the ones that are all yellow will be Self Blue like dad.

*I have to thank my friend Kristin for coming up with naming them Tater Tots.

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Feeding the Critters

On our Facebook page I asked people what burning questions they had for us. One of the questions was what we feed our animals and what we spent per month on their feed. It’s a good question, especially for people looking to raise animals for food production. In addition they brought up the idea of dumpster diving to feed the animals. It’s definitely an interesting idea and could definitely work for some of the animals, but not all. Everything here will be estimates as I’m just starting to keep track of everyone’s feed separately (last year I just lumped all feed together).

First, what we feed our different critters. Nearly all of them right now get commercial feed. Except for the rabbit feed, all of the feed is certified organic. I’ve only been able to find one company that makes organic rabbit feed but I was really unhappy with the quality of the feed for the price so we went back to a conventional feed.

Our rabbits get a commercial rabbit feed from a local mill and orchard grass. They also get stuff from our garden and extra greens from the farmers’ market like cabbage leaves and carrot tops. Some of our rabbits will eat it up but not all. Our bucks in particular are uninterested in anything green. They go through one 80lb bag of feed a month which costs us about $24. The orchard grass is a lot less usually going through a flake every other week which can come to a bale maybe three times a year. Of course this can vary a lot though depending on how many rabbits we have.

The chickens also get commercial feed and garden waste, but they also get all of our kitchen scraps and oyster shell. Our twelve chickens go through a 50lb bag of feed every 3 weeks which also costs about $24. The oyster shell is $10 for 50lbs which will last us a year.

The turkeys also get chicken feed but no scraps or oystershell. They generally don’t want anything to do with kitchen scraps or yard waste. They are really good foragers though so they only go through a bag of feed every other month.

The goats have a much more specific diet because of milk production and their specific dietary requirements. While we have orchard grass we get fairly poor milk production when we feed it to them. Instead they get alfalfa, which has higher protein and calcium. When getting milked they get a dairy goat ration which provides them with additional protein and calcium along with trace minerals they need to stay healthy like copper, selenium, and vitamins. They go through one 50lb bag once a month which runs about $23. We also offer free fed loose minerals and baking soda for them to regulate their needs. The cost of this is negligible since it takes quite awhile for them to go through a 25lb bag. They do occasionally get garden treats as well. They go through one bale of alfalfa per month which can range between $16 and $25 per bale depending on the season and how the weather is acting. Most of this year the cost of alfalfa has been at the higher end because of our erratic weather.

In terms of dumpster diving I think the only animals that would truly benefit from it would be the chickens and the rabbits. I would want to keep the breeding rabbits on commercial feed but we could grow out the others on scraps. The chickens would still require oyster shell and supplemental commercial food, but it would reduce the cost greatly if we went dumpster diving for their feed.

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Meet Hank the Tank

Hank is our newest addition. We traded him for Cranberry, one of our hens. Cranberry was getting bullied by the other two hens so we felt she would do better somewhere else. It worked out well since we were in need of a tom. Isn’t he a handsome turkey? And he’s actually quite sweet. He’s easily handled and isn’t aggressive at all.

When we brought him home though, we noticed he was a little off. He was wheezing a bit but didn’t have any mucus. His eyes and nostrils were clear and he wasn’t wheezing all the time. Then he would run around acting like he was clearing his throat. He would shake his head too, but it wasn’t something I noted really.

I decided to do a little research and from what I could tell, there was really only one cause. But I wasn’t sold on it because from everything I read it wasn’t a common problem. I decided to just go ahead and treat him for it and see how it went. Treatment worked and he’s right as rain now.

What he had was gapeworm. It’s a small blood red nematode worm that attaches to the bird’s trachea. Eventually they grow and multiply until they suffocate the bird, so even though it’s rare, it’s a serious problem. It gets it’s name because birds will stretch out their neck and “gape” trying to breath. They shake their heads to try and dislodge the worms. This shaking of his head sprays the microscopic eggs around him, thus infecting the ground. We had him quarantined from our two hens, but the pen he was in is normally used by the chickens as a axillary pen. So for now, until we can figure out how to clean it, it’s closed to everyone.

Gapeworms are spread through earthworms, sowbugs, snails and slugs, so control can be very difficult with free range birds. They mainly affect turkeys, pheasants and other wild birds. Younger birds are more susceptible. Older turkeys, like Hank who is 2 years old, generally are asymptomatic, but with the stress of moving they were able to get a stronger foothold on him.

Treatment, however, is fairly simple. We treated him with a 1% Ivermectin injectable solution orally. The dosage is .1mL per 10lbs of body weight. Hank weighs 20lbs so he received .2mL. We simply removed the needle from the syringe. Jeanette held him on her lap facing away from her. I opened his mouth and put the syringe as far back on top of the tongue as possible and pushed the plunger.

By the next day the wheezing was gone and he just looked better. He’s now all better and trying to find his place with our bossy hens. They don’t much care for him, but hopefully they’ll grow to be a flock.

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