What the Fodder?

eatingHave you seen the new biggest craze in livestock feed?

It takes just about a week to grow and increases your feed by up to 6x* by weight. It’s highly nutritious and provides 20% protein by dry weight. You can feed it to poultry, rabbits, ruminants, horses, just about any grass-loving livestock animal around.

When my friend, Brande, first told me about it I wasn’t so sure. I had heard great things about it but had only seen these huge, incredibly expensive setups for large livestock operations. I hadn’t even thought that it was possible to do fodder without one of these setups.

What in the hell was I thinking? Nowadays everything can be done DIY so why couldn’t making fodder? It would just require a bit more labor on my part.

dry

Cleaned barley with hulls intact (unhulled)

There are really only about 3 things you absolutely have to have: seed, water and planting trays with drainage holes. There’s no need for soil or fertilizer. Because we have a mild climate I’m just growing mine outside on a table. The best seed to use is barley as it has the highest nutrition and protein of all the other grain seeds. I can get an 80lb bag of barley for just over $18. You can try to find hulled barley but I find that unhulled seems to work fine. When watering, I recapture the water that drains to reuse.

soaking

Soaking barley in a bucket

You only want to put about a 1/2″ of barley in your tray. It really does swell up and I found that with 3lbs of barley the tray was busting out at the walls. Before you start with making fodder you need to soak the barley for 6-8 hours in water. This degrades germination inhibitors in the seeds (this is why you should also soak peas and legumes before planting). You want to cover the barley with enough water so that when it expands it remains covered.

Day1

Just starting to germinate.

Once your soaking is over pour the seed and water into your tray and then rinse the seed. Cover your tray so that it remains dark to help encourage germination. Above is the day after soaking. Small root tips begin to show up at the ends of the seed.

Day2

At this point you’ll begin to see the layer of seeds expand in size.

Water your seed 2-3 times a day. You want to keep it from drying out too much. By the second day after soaking you’ll start to see more of the roots.

day3

Time to uncover the seed so that it gets light. I simply use a burlap sac to cover the trays.

The following day small bits of green will poke their heads out of the layer of seeds and roots. It will soon be growing so fast you can almost watch it. By now you can take the cover off because you want the grass blades to develop chlorophyll and energy.

Day4

A nice green layer is beginning to form.

On the fourth day after soaking you’ll be seeing the beginning of a nice little green carpet. It’s not much yet but the following day you’ll be amazed.

Day5

Once it reaches this point it grows quickly.

Day 5 and it’s starting to look like turf. Keep watering at least twice a day.

Day6

From day 6 to day 7 the fodder is the most nutritious.

By day 6 you’re almost ready to feed it. Supposedly this is when the nutrition of the grass begins to peak.

mat

Roots, seed and leaf in one tidy package.

On day 7 it’s time to feed the fodder. You can see here the awesome layer of roots, seeds and grass. Poultry and ruminants will consume all these parts. Rabbits generally only like the greens. I started with 3lbs of seed and produced nearly 15lbs of fodder. It took my hens a couple of days to eat one tray’s worth of fodder. If you start a new tray ever day or every couple of days you’ll have a constant supply of fodder to feed.

*I’ve only seen about a 5x increase but I’ve heard that 6x is also possible.

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All About Poop – Using Manure in the Garden

This afternoon while I was prepping a new bed for garlic it dawned on me that I should probably pay attention to which manure and bedding I add to it. Being a root vegetable I didn’t want to add high nitrogen to the bed because that would stimulate too much top growth and the energy of the plant wouldn’t be used for making those big, juicy cloves on the bulb.What I would need is a manure that helps promote root growth. Ideally this would be a manure that was high in phosphorus but lower in nitrogen. Potassium is the third micronutrient and is used by the plant for overall vigor and disease resistance so it would be OK if this was high as well.

One of the benefits to keeping all of our animals in separate housing is that I can pick and choose who has the most appropriate manure for each bed. I can also choose when in the growing season I can apply each manure. In general chicken, turkey and goat are considered “hot” and need to be composted first. We usually put these down right after harvest and let them sit until we plant again. Rabbit, on the other hand, does not need to be composted first so we like to use this during the growing season. Additionally, the bedding that is mixed in with the manures really helps improve our heavy clay soil.

Here are the average numbers for common livestock manures that are readily accessible to us. The numbers correspond with N-P-K (Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium) and are percent of dry weight.

Goat 1.5 – 1.5 – 3.0

*Horse 2.3 – 0.9 – 1.7

Poultry 3.2 – 5.2 – 1.8

Rabbit 2.4 – 1.4 – 0.6

Steer 1.7 – 1.2 – 3.0

If you want to get really technical determining how much of each type of manures you should add you can do some calculations. Since growing food isn’t a business for us it’s not really worth it to have all the manure sent out to have it tested and then weigh everything before applying the manure. For home garden it can be more of an approximation based on the needs of different crops and what the different manures contain.

What I chose to use for the garlic was the old bedding from the goat yard that also included chicken manure from when the chickens were housed with them. This will be what I use for root vegetables. Once it runs out then I’ll mix the poultry and goat manure together to reach the same numbers. For other crops here is what I’ll be using where. (Nutrient requirements based on info in The Vegetable Gardener’s Bible)

Nutrient Requirements” N=high; P=high; K=high

Combination of poultry and rabbit manure (or poultry and horse)

  • Artichokes
  • Broccoli
  • Cabbage
  • Cauliflower
  • Celery
  • Corn
  • Dill
  • Lettuce
  • Peppers
  • Potatoes
  • Tomatoes

Nutrient Requirements” N=high; P=moderate; K=moderate

Rabbit manure (or horse)

  • Asparagus
  • Mustard
  • Summer Squash
  • Winter Squash

Nutrient Requirements” N=high; P=low; K=low

Rabbit manure (or horse)

  • Carrots
  • Parnips

Nutrient Requirements” N=moderate; P=moderate; K=moderate

Combination of poultry and goat manure (or poultry and steer)

  • Garlic
  • Chives
  • Jerusalem Artichokes
  • Kale
  • Kohlrabi
  • Leeks
  • Okra
  • Onions
  • Parsley
  • Spinach
  • Strawberries

Nutrient Requirements” N=moderate; P=high; K=high

Goat manure (or steer)

  • Brussels Sprouts
  • Cucumber
  • Eggplant

Nutrient Requirements” N=moderate; P=low; K=low

Rabbit manure (or horse)

  • Fennel

Nutrient Requirements” N=low; P=high; K=high

Goat manure (or steer)

  • Melons
  • Watermelons

Nutrient Requirements” N=low; P=moderate; K=moderate

Goat manure (or steer)

  • Bush Beans
  • Pole Beans
  • Beets
  • Swiss Chard

Nutrient Requirements” N=low; P=low; K=low

Light on the goat manure (or steer)

  • Arugula
  •  Basil
  • Cilantro
  • Horseradish
  • Marjoram
  • Oregano
  • Peas
  • Radishes
  • Rhubarb
  • Sage
  • Sunflowers
  • Sweet Potatoes
  • Tarragon
  • Tomatillos
  • Turnips

Of course nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are not the only nutrients plants need, nor are they only nutrients found in manure. Manure also contains calcium, magnesium, zinc, sulfur and various levels of other nutrients. Composted manure also contains a lot of beneficial microorganisms which help break down nutrients and make them available to plants. The addition of carbon (bedding) makes the perfect mix of nitrogen and carbon for composting. It wasn’t until we got chickens and started adding their bedding to our compost pile were we finally able to get it hot. Our livestock manure is actually mixed in with composted kitchen scraps and yard waste to add another level of nutrients.

It’s not just about nutrients when it comes to manure and compost. The addition of it greatly improves the soil structure such as loosening heavy clay soil or increasing water retention in sandy soils. In my opinion adding compost and/or manure is really the only way to go when trying to improve your soil. You just can’t have healthy, nutritious food without healthy soil.

*Horse manure is commonly available for free or very low cost at boarding stables. Be aware, however, that if the animals are pastured it could be high in weed seeds unless it is properly composted at a high enough temperature.

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Shelter in Place

Yesterday there was an explosion followed by a fire at a local refinery. Fortunately for us the plume of smoke decided to travel in the exact opposite direction of where we live. We couldn’t even see it off in the distance. Which is a good thing for us. Not so good for those that were in its path. They had to shelter in place.

It did get me thinking though. If the winds were going in the other direction could we mitigate for such an event? Maybe but it would require some work. Last year Farmer Lynda wrote a great post right after the Fukushima meltdown about the tough decisions she would have to make if there was nuclear fallout.

The turkeys, though they would be unhappy about it, could be kept safe in Turkey Town. The chickens would be tricky because we’d have to quickly figure out a way to keep them confined to their indoor coop (which opens up to their yard directly). Not impossible, but it would take a little bit of time. The goats have plenty of indoor space that they could be confined to easily without much work on our part. Probably the best option would be to throw the chickens in with the goats temporarily – it’s not like they haven’t lived together before. The rabbits could pose a problem. The bottom of the rabbitry is open to allow their waste to fall away from them. Probably the best option would be to move them inside – if it’s not too hot outside.  All of our animal feed is safely stored in metal trashcans – most of which is actually indoors. Hay is also stored inside, as is bedding materials.

The vegetables and fruits are another matter entirely. How do we keep them from being covered in dangerous particulates? We’d probably need to cover everything if we can. That which can’t be covered would require us to wash and peel them or remove the outer leaves, like on cabbage, before using them. Root vegetable would remain relatively safe though. Veggies that can’t be peeled like beans, lettuce and spinach would be the priorities for covering since they aren’t easily peeled.

I’m foreseeing some small changes around here to accommodate possible emergencies.

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A Bit of a Blue Weekend

But definitely not in a bad way. I have to admit, I am totally drawn to blue animals. American Blue rabbits. Blue Slate Turkeys. Blue Copper Marans chickens. This weekend we got two more blue animals.

A Blue Cochin named Cordon Bleu came to us yesterday from a friend in exchange for a couple of turkey poults. She’s an older hen at 3 years old but the reason we got her is because she’s constantly broody. She couldn’t raise chicks at her old home so we’re hoping to let her have that experience here. I just love her feathers. She’s super mellow and friendly and seems to be adjusting to her quarantine pen pretty well. She’ll have to live in there for 2 weeks while the rest of our birds get used to her. Fortunately every one seems to be ignoring each other pretty well.

Our other blue animal is our new little American Blue doe, MJR Yasmine. She’s a cutie and really mellow. She’s getting used to her new digs as well. She’s still pretty young so we won’t be breeding her for several months but in the meantime she’ll be getting lots of attention.

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Upcoming Events

We’ve got some great events coming up that you should try to check out if you’re in the area.

This Saturday, May 12th, Tom and I will be at Loma Vista Farm in Vallejo teaching a small livestock health class. We’ll go over basic preventative care, natural remedies, over-the-counter options and when to call the vet. Our main focus will be on chickens, goats and rabbits. We’ll get to be out of the classroom and go see the animals while we discuss their care. We’ll also bring samples of what we keep on hand for their care including tools, supplements and feed. The class is free but donations to Loma Vista Farm (donations are tax deductible) are gladly accepted and much appreciated. Contact Loma Vista Farm to register. Call (707) 556-8765 or email through their site.

The following weekend is the Maker Faire. We’ll be there the first half of the day on Saturday running the East Bay Urban Agriculture Alliance booth in the Homegrown Village. Three of our chickens – Lefty, White Chicken and Big Red – will be with us. Come on by and ask us any of your garden or livestock questions. Learn more about the EBUAA and even sign up to join. Then later on we’ll be running a basic chicken keeping workshop. This workshop won’t be so heavy on healthcare but rather just the basics such as coop design, feeding, brooding, and other needs.

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Vanilla Extract and Breeding Rabbits

You’re probably wondering what vanilla extract has to do with rabbits. I’ll get to that later. First I want to discuss how we breed our rabbits here. We’ve developed a technique that has worked rather well for us to increase litter size. This isn’t the only way to breed, of course, but having tried several ways here this is what we do.

Never breed rabbits younger than 6 months old. The common rule to breeding is that you always take the doe to the buck. Does can be very territorial so taking a buck to the doe can cause a fight. Also a buck can get preoccupied checking out a new space and not end up getting around to doing the deed. You also want to be there to supervise. You want to make sure they actually connect and you don’t want a fight. Sometimes a buck will mount the doe backwards which can sometimes result in the doe biting off his….Yeah. Supervise them.

We place the doe in with the buck in the morning and let them breed three times. You’ll know it was a successful connection when the buck throws his back legs in front of him in the air and he rolls off the doe. It’s kind of hard to explain but when you see it you’ll know what I mean. It’s rather hilarious. 8 hours later we put the doe back in with the buck and let them breed again. Sometimes the doe isn’t down with 3 more times so we just go for 1-3 times. A doe, especially a virgin doe, will sometimes keep her butt down so you have to patient with them.

Rabbits don’t have a ovulation cycle like a lot of other mammals. Sexual activity is what stimulates does to ovulate, which can be several hours after the first encounter, which is why you want to do a second breeding to increase litter size.

After breeding a doe will kindle (give birth) in 28-35 days. On the 27th day we give the doe a nest box filled with orchard grass for bedding. We find the orchard grass is softer and more absorbent than straw. When the doe is getting close to kindling she’ll start making a nest in the box. Right before kindling she’ll start pulling fur to add to the next. We know she kindled when we see a nice pile of fur in a mass in the back of the nest box. We will usually do a quick check for the kits to make sure they are all alive. If there are any dead ones we’ll immediately remove them.

You’re probably still wondering about the vanilla extract. When we have first time mothers or rabbits that are ornery we will breed them at the same time as a rabbit we know is a good mother. If the inexperienced doe abandons her kits we can then give them to our good mother. To make sure she doesn’t reject them we dab a bit of vanilla extract on her nose. This masks the scent of the new kits just long enough for them to pick up the scent of her kits. Of course this isn’t fool proof but it does give the orphans a fighting chance.

When the kits reach about 8 weeks old we’ll begin to remove them from the doe. We don’t remove them all at once because we want to dry her milk off slowly to reduce any discomfort. We usually start with the boys and remove one every 3-4 days. If we’re not planning on rebreeding soon we will leave the daughters with mom for awhile longer.

 

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Slowing it Down

The #1 advice that I can give to people who want to get into urban farming is to take it slow. Too many people try to take everything on at once. In less than a year they’ve got the giant garden, 40 chickens, 5 goats, 12 ducks, 4 bee hives, 6 breeding rabbits, and 4 pigs. OK, I’m exaggerating, but not by much. It’s new and exciting and you want to do it all. I get it! I totally understand! But don’t do it all. At least not right away. Start small until you’re comfortable with it and then expand. But expand slowly.

Part of our garden back in 2007

I try to remind people that it’s taken Tom and I over 7 years of serious commitment to get where we are now. When you’re first learning to garden it can be overwhelming. Like many other activities it takes a lot more time to do when you’re just learning how. There are so many things to learn and pay attention to. Failure is going to happen and you can’t let it get you down. You have to pull yourself up and learn from the failures. It took me YEARS to finally grow a respectable pumpkin. I kept at it and can now grow pumpkins like this:

Squeek and her pumpkin - 2010

Nowadays we don’t spend much time gardening at all. In the spring we spend a few weekends prepping and planting and then in the summer we begin harvesting. We have automatic irrigation to take care of the watering and with wide beds weeding isn’t crucial once the plants get to a decent size. When we were comfortable with the time we were spending in the garden we got three hens.

Our first hens - 2008

Over the course of 4 years we’ve slowly added more animals and more gardening beds. We didn’t want to end up overwhelmed, which is easy to do especially when you have a chicken addiction like I do. We’re now at place where we’re comfortable and won’t be expanding much more. The only addition we are planning is to keep one of Sedona’s doelings so she’s no longer the third wheel around here. Other than that, we’re at a happy medium.

When introducing livestock it’s really important – I can’t emphasis this enough – to take it slow. Before taking on any livestock make sure to do your research and definitely make sure whether that animal is even legal to keep in your community. Take classes and meet others that are raising that species. Ask questions, lots of questions, and take the advice given to you. Figure out where you can get feed and supplies for them and where the closest vet is that will see that animal. Take on one species at a time and get into a good routine with them before taking on something new. Start with easier animals like chickens or rabbits. Evaluate how much work they require and whether you have the time to take on more. And, of course, be honest with yourself. If you’re already super busy with everything in your life are you really willing to commit the time that’s needed for more animals? Even if you really, Really, REALLY want goats but you barely have time to yourself they probably aren’t the right animal for you.

Taking it slow will ensure that you and your animals are happy and productive.

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Animals Made Me a Better Gardener

Our animals are eating weed trimmings from next door that we know are not treated with anything.

Back before petrochemical fertilizer cocktails, farmers weren’t monocroppers. They ran a closed system and part of that system included animals. The animals ate the crop waste and silage. They helped work the land. And their waste helped keep the soil healthy. As synthetic fertilizers became the norm animals and crop diversity quickly feel out of favor. Monocropping huge expanses of land was less work than having multiple crops and caring for animals.

Before we had animals we couldn’t produce enough of our own compost to amend the soil. On top of that, because the pile was fairly small it was near impossible to keep it hot enough. Instead we relied on bringing in commercial compost. Unfortunately with commercial compost you don’t know what is in it. Studies are showing persistent herbicides showing up in “organic” compost. On top of that there’s no way of knowing what persistent pesticides and fertilizers are also in your commercial compost. Think of all the grass clippings that go into yard waste bins. Now think about all the crap many homeowners put on that grass to make it green and weed-free. I’m not entirely sure that was something I wanted around my food.

To be able to amend all of our soil with just compost we had to bring in at least 5 full truckloads of compost every season. This wasted quite a bit of gas, time and money. It wasn’t cost effective for us and it simply wasn’t sustainable.

When we got chickens I wasn’t prepared for what they could do to my compost pile. Because their manure is hot it literally made our compost hot. Steaming hot. But being busy we found we weren’t able to turn the pile as often as we should. So we handed the job over to our chickens. They got all of our kitchen scraps and non-toxic yard waste. They ate what they wanted then turned and shredded everything else. They kept the compost aerated and added their manure to it. When we got the goats they joined in the fun.

This black gold they gave us was beautiful and plentiful. We completely stopped bringing in compost. With the manure we needed less material overall because it was more concentrated. This made it easier to spread taking an afternoon rather than several weekends. It is the perfect balance as we have all that we need and don’t have any extra.We feed our animals organic feed so we knew what was going in and out of them.

After our final harvest each season we would spread the black gold over the bed to allow it to continue to compost down further before we planted the next crop. When we got the rabbits they added a new dimension to our soil amending. Because rabbit manure is not hot it can be added directly to the plants without being composted. This allowed us to amend the soil while the plants were actively growing. We, of course, don’t use it on root vegetables unless we amend very early allowing at least 60 days before harvest. With heavy feeding crops such as melons, squash and corn, it was a godsend because it insured that we could continue to feed the plants throughout the growing season without worrying about burning them.

But it’s not just fertilizer that they provide. The chickens and turkeys in particular help with keeping weeds down and also with pest control. When the beds are dormant the birds get to go out and dig around eating mountains of cutworms, potato bugs, earwigs, and basically anything else that moves. When we start planting we fence them from the beds but they still get the area on the north side which is where our orchard is. There we allow the weeds to grow as a trap crop for insects, which the birds then eat along with keeping the weeds from getting out of hand.

The animals around here definitely earn their keep and help provide us food directly and indirectly. I couldn’t imagine doing it without them now.

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Feeding the Critters

On our Facebook page I asked people what burning questions they had for us. One of the questions was what we feed our animals and what we spent per month on their feed. It’s a good question, especially for people looking to raise animals for food production. In addition they brought up the idea of dumpster diving to feed the animals. It’s definitely an interesting idea and could definitely work for some of the animals, but not all. Everything here will be estimates as I’m just starting to keep track of everyone’s feed separately (last year I just lumped all feed together).

First, what we feed our different critters. Nearly all of them right now get commercial feed. Except for the rabbit feed, all of the feed is certified organic. I’ve only been able to find one company that makes organic rabbit feed but I was really unhappy with the quality of the feed for the price so we went back to a conventional feed.

Our rabbits get a commercial rabbit feed from a local mill and orchard grass. They also get stuff from our garden and extra greens from the farmers’ market like cabbage leaves and carrot tops. Some of our rabbits will eat it up but not all. Our bucks in particular are uninterested in anything green. They go through one 80lb bag of feed a month which costs us about $24. The orchard grass is a lot less usually going through a flake every other week which can come to a bale maybe three times a year. Of course this can vary a lot though depending on how many rabbits we have.

The chickens also get commercial feed and garden waste, but they also get all of our kitchen scraps and oyster shell. Our twelve chickens go through a 50lb bag of feed every 3 weeks which also costs about $24. The oyster shell is $10 for 50lbs which will last us a year.

The turkeys also get chicken feed but no scraps or oystershell. They generally don’t want anything to do with kitchen scraps or yard waste. They are really good foragers though so they only go through a bag of feed every other month.

The goats have a much more specific diet because of milk production and their specific dietary requirements. While we have orchard grass we get fairly poor milk production when we feed it to them. Instead they get alfalfa, which has higher protein and calcium. When getting milked they get a dairy goat ration which provides them with additional protein and calcium along with trace minerals they need to stay healthy like copper, selenium, and vitamins. They go through one 50lb bag once a month which runs about $23. We also offer free fed loose minerals and baking soda for them to regulate their needs. The cost of this is negligible since it takes quite awhile for them to go through a 25lb bag. They do occasionally get garden treats as well. They go through one bale of alfalfa per month which can range between $16 and $25 per bale depending on the season and how the weather is acting. Most of this year the cost of alfalfa has been at the higher end because of our erratic weather.

In terms of dumpster diving I think the only animals that would truly benefit from it would be the chickens and the rabbits. I would want to keep the breeding rabbits on commercial feed but we could grow out the others on scraps. The chickens would still require oyster shell and supplemental commercial food, but it would reduce the cost greatly if we went dumpster diving for their feed.

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Meet Our Newest

Lou isn’t working out for us. We were unable to obtain his pedigree and, to be honest, I’ve really been questioning whether he’s actually an American Blue or not. He doesn’t have the correct fur texture or the right shape (mandolin body).

He’s got a few more strikes against him as well. He has a bit of a problem sealing the deal. We finally got him to successfully breed both Lucy and Kumquat, but there were still problems. Lucy, who is a phenomenal mother, lost several of her kits right out of the gate. Kumquat lost half of hers, even though she was clearly taking care of them (this time). If it was just Kumquat who had lost hers I wouldn’t have had a second thought about it, but because Lucy also lost several of her kits, it didn’t sit well with me.

So Lou is getting taken out of production. Not having a pedigree, inability to perform, and potentially poor genetics have made us think long and hard about his future. He’s still here though (I have a soft spot for the underdog) and if anyone else wants to give him a chance, let us know as we’re more than happy to place him in a new home.

In the meantime we’ve got a new addition! I was able to find a local breeder that also raised American Rabbits (Blues and Whites). Saturday we picked up our new buck. He’s so very handsome and sweet. and he loves to be held and loved on. Meet MJR Otis.

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