Shelter in Place

Yesterday there was an explosion followed by a fire at a local refinery. Fortunately for us the plume of smoke decided to travel in the exact opposite direction of where we live. We couldn’t even see it off in the distance. Which is a good thing for us. Not so good for those that were in its path. They had to shelter in place.

It did get me thinking though. If the winds were going in the other direction could we mitigate for such an event? Maybe but it would require some work. Last year Farmer Lynda wrote a great post right after the Fukushima meltdown about the tough decisions she would have to make if there was nuclear fallout.

The turkeys, though they would be unhappy about it, could be kept safe in Turkey Town. The chickens would be tricky because we’d have to quickly figure out a way to keep them confined to their indoor coop (which opens up to their yard directly). Not impossible, but it would take a little bit of time. The goats have plenty of indoor space that they could be confined to easily without much work on our part. Probably the best option would be to throw the chickens in with the goats temporarily – it’s not like they haven’t lived together before. The rabbits could pose a problem. The bottom of the rabbitry is open to allow their waste to fall away from them. Probably the best option would be to move them inside – if it’s not too hot outside.  All of our animal feed is safely stored in metal trashcans – most of which is actually indoors. Hay is also stored inside, as is bedding materials.

The vegetables and fruits are another matter entirely. How do we keep them from being covered in dangerous particulates? We’d probably need to cover everything if we can. That which can’t be covered would require us to wash and peel them or remove the outer leaves, like on cabbage, before using them. Root vegetable would remain relatively safe though. Veggies that can’t be peeled like beans, lettuce and spinach would be the priorities for covering since they aren’t easily peeled.

I’m foreseeing some small changes around here to accommodate possible emergencies.

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Upcoming Events

We’ve got some great events coming up that you should try to check out if you’re in the area.

This Saturday, May 12th, Tom and I will be at Loma Vista Farm in Vallejo teaching a small livestock health class. We’ll go over basic preventative care, natural remedies, over-the-counter options and when to call the vet. Our main focus will be on chickens, goats and rabbits. We’ll get to be out of the classroom and go see the animals while we discuss their care. We’ll also bring samples of what we keep on hand for their care including tools, supplements and feed. The class is free but donations to Loma Vista Farm (donations are tax deductible) are gladly accepted and much appreciated. Contact Loma Vista Farm to register. Call (707) 556-8765 or email through their site.

The following weekend is the Maker Faire. We’ll be there the first half of the day on Saturday running the East Bay Urban Agriculture Alliance booth in the Homegrown Village. Three of our chickens – Lefty, White Chicken and Big Red – will be with us. Come on by and ask us any of your garden or livestock questions. Learn more about the EBUAA and even sign up to join. Then later on we’ll be running a basic chicken keeping workshop. This workshop won’t be so heavy on healthcare but rather just the basics such as coop design, feeding, brooding, and other needs.

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Vanilla Extract and Breeding Rabbits

You’re probably wondering what vanilla extract has to do with rabbits. I’ll get to that later. First I want to discuss how we breed our rabbits here. We’ve developed a technique that has worked rather well for us to increase litter size. This isn’t the only way to breed, of course, but having tried several ways here this is what we do.

Never breed rabbits younger than 6 months old. The common rule to breeding is that you always take the doe to the buck. Does can be very territorial so taking a buck to the doe can cause a fight. Also a buck can get preoccupied checking out a new space and not end up getting around to doing the deed. You also want to be there to supervise. You want to make sure they actually connect and you don’t want a fight. Sometimes a buck will mount the doe backwards which can sometimes result in the doe biting off his….Yeah. Supervise them.

We place the doe in with the buck in the morning and let them breed three times. You’ll know it was a successful connection when the buck throws his back legs in front of him in the air and he rolls off the doe. It’s kind of hard to explain but when you see it you’ll know what I mean. It’s rather hilarious. 8 hours later we put the doe back in with the buck and let them breed again. Sometimes the doe isn’t down with 3 more times so we just go for 1-3 times. A doe, especially a virgin doe, will sometimes keep her butt down so you have to patient with them.

Rabbits don’t have a ovulation cycle like a lot of other mammals. Sexual activity is what stimulates does to ovulate, which can be several hours after the first encounter, which is why you want to do a second breeding to increase litter size.

After breeding a doe will kindle (give birth) in 28-35 days. On the 27th day we give the doe a nest box filled with orchard grass for bedding. We find the orchard grass is softer and more absorbent than straw. When the doe is getting close to kindling she’ll start making a nest in the box. Right before kindling she’ll start pulling fur to add to the next. We know she kindled when we see a nice pile of fur in a mass in the back of the nest box. We will usually do a quick check for the kits to make sure they are all alive. If there are any dead ones we’ll immediately remove them.

You’re probably still wondering about the vanilla extract. When we have first time mothers or rabbits that are ornery we will breed them at the same time as a rabbit we know is a good mother. If the inexperienced doe abandons her kits we can then give them to our good mother. To make sure she doesn’t reject them we dab a bit of vanilla extract on her nose. This masks the scent of the new kits just long enough for them to pick up the scent of her kits. Of course this isn’t fool proof but it does give the orphans a fighting chance.

When the kits reach about 8 weeks old we’ll begin to remove them from the doe. We don’t remove them all at once because we want to dry her milk off slowly to reduce any discomfort. We usually start with the boys and remove one every 3-4 days. If we’re not planning on rebreeding soon we will leave the daughters with mom for awhile longer.

 

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Feeding the Critters

On our Facebook page I asked people what burning questions they had for us. One of the questions was what we feed our animals and what we spent per month on their feed. It’s a good question, especially for people looking to raise animals for food production. In addition they brought up the idea of dumpster diving to feed the animals. It’s definitely an interesting idea and could definitely work for some of the animals, but not all. Everything here will be estimates as I’m just starting to keep track of everyone’s feed separately (last year I just lumped all feed together).

First, what we feed our different critters. Nearly all of them right now get commercial feed. Except for the rabbit feed, all of the feed is certified organic. I’ve only been able to find one company that makes organic rabbit feed but I was really unhappy with the quality of the feed for the price so we went back to a conventional feed.

Our rabbits get a commercial rabbit feed from a local mill and orchard grass. They also get stuff from our garden and extra greens from the farmers’ market like cabbage leaves and carrot tops. Some of our rabbits will eat it up but not all. Our bucks in particular are uninterested in anything green. They go through one 80lb bag of feed a month which costs us about $24. The orchard grass is a lot less usually going through a flake every other week which can come to a bale maybe three times a year. Of course this can vary a lot though depending on how many rabbits we have.

The chickens also get commercial feed and garden waste, but they also get all of our kitchen scraps and oyster shell. Our twelve chickens go through a 50lb bag of feed every 3 weeks which also costs about $24. The oyster shell is $10 for 50lbs which will last us a year.

The turkeys also get chicken feed but no scraps or oystershell. They generally don’t want anything to do with kitchen scraps or yard waste. They are really good foragers though so they only go through a bag of feed every other month.

The goats have a much more specific diet because of milk production and their specific dietary requirements. While we have orchard grass we get fairly poor milk production when we feed it to them. Instead they get alfalfa, which has higher protein and calcium. When getting milked they get a dairy goat ration which provides them with additional protein and calcium along with trace minerals they need to stay healthy like copper, selenium, and vitamins. They go through one 50lb bag once a month which runs about $23. We also offer free fed loose minerals and baking soda for them to regulate their needs. The cost of this is negligible since it takes quite awhile for them to go through a 25lb bag. They do occasionally get garden treats as well. They go through one bale of alfalfa per month which can range between $16 and $25 per bale depending on the season and how the weather is acting. Most of this year the cost of alfalfa has been at the higher end because of our erratic weather.

In terms of dumpster diving I think the only animals that would truly benefit from it would be the chickens and the rabbits. I would want to keep the breeding rabbits on commercial feed but we could grow out the others on scraps. The chickens would still require oyster shell and supplemental commercial food, but it would reduce the cost greatly if we went dumpster diving for their feed.

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Nature is Cruel

In the past week and a half our two does both kindled.

Kit from Kumquat’s last litter

Lucy kindled early last week. She’s my dependable doe that has proven herself to be a good mom. Unfortunately one of her kits was stillborn. It happens, and this isn’t the first time it’s happened to her. One of the other kits is a runt – much smaller than its siblings. It’s lively and energetic and otherwise seems to be doing OK. Since she only has 6 kits total right now, and 8 teats, it’s not a huge concern that it won’t be able to feed, but we’re definitely keeping an eye on it.

Kumquat, on the other hand is a fickle rabbit. She kindled earlier this week. The first sign that we might have a problem is that she didn’t pull fur to make a nest for them. She did kindle in the nest box so we put orchard grass around them and hoped for the best. After all, the last time she kindled she didn’t pull fur until the kits were 2 days old.

But 2 days went by and she still hadn’t pulled any fur and the kits weren’t growing. At all. It became clear yesterday that she had completely abandoned them. They were nearly a full week younger than Lucy’s kits, and because Lucy already had 6 kits that were twice the size of Kumquat’s kits we couldn’t give them to her without risking Lucy abandoning not only Kumquat’s kits but also her own. So we had to let them go.

Rabbits are incredibly difficult to foster, and at this age it’s even more difficult. And to be honest, we thought she was feeding them because there were definite signs that she was going into the nest box with them. Because rabbits nurse their kits only twice a day and are very private about it, it wasn’t totally obvious that she wasn’t feeding them until it was too late to save them.

This wasn’t Kumquat’s first litter, which she raised perfectly. The only reason I can think she didn’t want to mother these kits is because Lucy moved into the hutch next to her a couple of months ago and she still seems a bit pissed about it. Once Lucy’s kits are out of the nest box, we’ll move them and Lucy back to Lucy’s old hutch, which was previously home to her last kits.

And sometimes a rabbit just doesn’t want to be a mom.

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Rabbits and Summer are Not Friends

This week we had a heat wave so it’s fitting to discuss rabbits and summertime before things really get into full swing. The summer is when you really have to keep an eye on your rabbits. They do great in cold temperatures. After all, they are covered completely with a nice thick coat – even the bottoms of their feet. This causes a problem, however, when temperatures get over 85 deg F.

If you have air conditioning and space inside, that’s the best place to keep rabbits. We don’t have either. Our house can get hotter than the outside temps so the best place for us to keep our rabbits is under the big oak tree in our backyard. Being on the north side of the tree allows them to have shade all day long. But this is definitely not enough on those really hot days.

One thing I’ve realized is that I pay a lot more attention to the weather forecast in the summer now. If the weather is expected to get over 80 deg F we start taking the necessary steps to insure the rabbits are comfortable. I keep an outdoor thermometer inside the hutch to help determine the temperatures we’re dealing with and whether it’s cool enough.

Our first line of defense is our misting system and fan. This can lower the ambient temperature by 15 degrees. You can sometimes find these systems at hardware stores, but I’ve had the best luck getting them online. When installing the misters you want to make sure the nozzles are pointed down, but away from your rabbits. The fan shouldn’t be on the rabbits directly but set up in a way that it doesn’t get wet and that it circulates the cooler air around the rabbits. You want them to cool the air without getting the rabbits wet. That thick fur can get waterlogged and when it’s warm it can make them a target for flystrike (warning: graphic). If we know the weather is going to be hot, we turn the system on first thing in the morning. It makes it easier to keep the temperatures down if you start early rather than coming in when it’s already hot and trying to cool the area down.

Our second line of defense are frozen 2L or 1/2 gallon water bottles. We had to make room in our freezer for them, which wasn’t easy. The rabbits like to lean on these and to lick them when it gets really hot. It’s important to use larger bottles because the smaller ones don’t stay frozen long enough. Also, it’s key to plan ahead as these can take a couple of days to freeze solid.

Rabbits can go into heat stroke quickly so it’s important to monitor them on those really hot days. If your rabbit is laying with it’s head thrown back, panting and flaring it’s nostrils it’s in the first stage of heat stroke and must be cooled down as soon as possible.  If there is moisture around it’s nose and mouth with the above signs, it’s gone into the second stage of heat stroke. If the moisture has run down the front of the rabbit, this is the third stage and you only have a 50% chance of saving the animal. If it’s gone into convulsions it’s in the final stage of heat stroke and should be humanely euthanized.

The best way to cool a rabbit (or any animal) that has heat stroke is to get that animal wet. Keep a bucket of water by your hutch. You want the water to be ambient temperature as cold water can throw the animal into shock. Dunk the rabbit making sure to get it’s ears wet, but not it’s muzzle. This gets the water down to their skin to help cool it faster. Be careful of using a hose because if it’s been in the sun all day it can come out extremely hot. In an extreme emergency, such as heat stroke, flystrike is the least of your worries so go ahead and get your rabbit wet. It’s when the animal is wet for long periods of time that you have to worry the most.

Of course an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure – so make sure you have the proper system to keep your rabbits cool.

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Lucy Got Some New Digs

Breeding rabbits can lead to…well….lots of rabbits. So we needed more hutches. We needed two grow out pens, one for the does and one of the bucks. Well, since we had 5 breeders already in our 5 hutches it meant we didn’t have enough space. Fortunately a friend of ours gave us their old hutch. OK, so the bucks could stay in that. It’s fine to leave the does in with their mom, but we needed to ween them at least 2 weeks before she kindled again.

Now for those that haven’t met Lucy, she’s a BIG rabbit. She’s almost as big as our biggest buck. She had been having a hard time on the wire because of her size and also the added weight of carrying kits so we needed to find a better place for her.

Fortunately for her, Tom found a really REALLY nice hutch for free on Craigslist. It has a perforated floor, but it’s not wire, allowing more support for her. It even came with a nest box for her. So far she seems a lot happier and had no qualms about kindling in the nest box. She’s even friendlier than she was before.

As Esperanza discussed yesterday on her blog, Pluck and Feather, a rabbit’s environment can make the difference.

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Missed It

We bred Lucy, our Californian doe back in mid November. She was due this past Friday. We were going to give her one more chance to have a large litter. Her first litter was 3. One died immediately and another one died in our heinous heatwave. Her last litter wasn’t a litter. She just had one kit. One big healthy kit, but just one kit none-the-less. So we said that if she couldn’t give us a big litter the next round we’d have to retire her.

We’ve tried several different techniques but the one that I’ve read the most about we hadn’t tried. So this was her chance. The technique is to let them breed 3 times, remove the doe and then take her back 8 hours later. The theory is that rabbits don’t cycle until stimulated. After being stimulated they will ovulate 8 hours later, but if they urinate between the breeding and ovulation all is lost. So that is the reason for breeding again 8 hours after the first breeding.

Turns out she wasn’t pregnant. Neither of us have mastered palpating to see if she’s pregnant. But she seemed bigger. She wasn’t though. I’m not going to hold it against her for not being pregnant. Rabbits’ fertility wanes as the days do. She was also really stressed when we last bred her. We bred her with Lou who she wasn’t familiar with and was quite scared of because he’s so much bigger than Ricky, who she lives next to and is used to.

So this time we’ve bred her to Ricky again. She likes him a LOT. She doesn’t run around his hutch like a crazy rabbit trying to get away from him. Plus he’s really sweet and grooms her. So let’s hope this time takes. But since it’s almost the Winter Solstice and days are so short I’m not going to expect much.

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Definitely a Learning Curve

Well well well. I have to admit, we’re still learning an awful lot about raising livestock. So I guess it was bound to happen that we wouldn’t sex a rabbit correctly and end up with 3 bucks and just 2 does. Remember Scooter?

Scooter’s growing up and is now a very friendly, curious rabbit with a penchant for nibbling on my shirt (and fingers). By the way, I apologize for not having a more updated photo of Scooter. When we first got Scooter Tom thought he was a buck. After doing some research though and really checking him Scooter appeared to have the same equipment as our doe Roly Poly. There was no penis to be seen. No testicles. Nothing. And Scooter was definitely old enough to be able to sex. A month ago a good friend of mine came by for a visit. She used to raise rabbits for 4H so I asked her to see if she could sex Scooter for us. She agreed that Scooter was a doe. So we were now in search for a buck for Scooter. That’s when we got Lou.

Well, two days after we get Lou I decide to sex Scooter again, just in case. Doh! Scooter now has a penis and testicles. Yep, Scooter is, in fact, a buck. So now we have Ricky, Scooter, and Lou. Way too many bucks. The difficult thing is choosing who to keep. Ricky is our only Californian. Scooter is definitely more true to breed than Lou, plus he’s a lot friendlier. But Lou is HUGE!

Our hutch only has 5 cages, which are now all filled. We’re getting an American Blue Doe this weekend so someone has to go. And it’s not Scooter…

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Livestock Breeding Update

This is definitely breeding season around here!

 Last week I had mentioned that we now had a buck named Max. I finally got a photo of him. Almost immediately after bringing him home, Daisy went into heat. We put her in his pen with him. She was ready to go but, being a man, his affections were with Bella, who didn’t want anything to do with him. She’d come near and he’d wag his tongue and blubber at her. If she wasn’t near, he would stand at the fence looking for her. Of course, when she got near, she was simply looking for her daughter, Daisy and if he got close to her, she’d ram the fence. Ahhh, love, ain’t it grand?

Well, the next day we let him out, rubbed some raddle paste on him (against his loud protesting) and left him with the girls. That evening Bella also went into heat. However, it wasn’t until the following day that anything actually happened. Both girls were following him around and all he wanted to do was eat. Well, he FINALLY bred Daisy Friday afternoon. Saturday he was attempting to breed Bella, but I’m not sure if he closed the deal or not. We’ll have to keep an eye on her and see if she comes back into heat.

We’ll probably have him for another 3 weeks or so just to make sure. I hope it took because that buck is STANKY. They have some disgusting habits I won’t get into, but let’s just say he wafts his smell all over the goat yard.

In addition, Lucy kindled. I came home yesterday after work to find her breathing rather rapidly. She’s at the 34th day of her gestation, which is definitely on the long side (rabbits average between 28-34 days). When I walked back by her hutch she was frantically moving hay around to create her nest. She kindled overnight, but as of this morning there was only one kit. This perplexes me because she was much bigger/heavier this time around compared to last time when she had three kits. It could be possible that she just started kindling this morning and isn’t done yet. The one kit she did have appeared still slightly damp. We will see when we get home tonight. Her outlook isn’t good if this is her second small litter – rabbits should have 6-10 kits per litter We can’t justify her cost for one or two kits at a time.

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