Household Items You Can Use in the Garden

I’ve decided to build upon my tips for frugal gardeners. This however has more to do with using items you probably already have in your house.

Aspirin – Dissolve 3/4 of an uncoated asprin tablet in 1 gallon of water. Spray plants ever 2-3 weeks with the mixture to prevent fungus problems, including powdery mildew and black spot. It’s also been found to help some plants yield more fruit than using commercial fertilizers.

Baking Soda

Baking Soda – Mix 1 tbs of baking soda and a 1/2 tsp liquid soap into 1 gallon of water. Spray this weekly on plants that are prone to powdery mildew. This works as more of a preventative as it won’t do much after the powdery mildew has taken hold. Make sure to spray the undersides of leaves. Also, apply it in the evening if you can, as it can burn some leaves.

Beer – Put beer (or water with yeast in it) in a shallow container. Sink the contain so that the lip is at ground level in the garden. The beer attracts snails and slugs. They fall into it and drown.

Borax – This is a common laundry additive (20 Mule Team is a popular brand), esp. for those of us with hard water. But it also works as a nontoxic ant killer. Ants are a huge problem for us as they “farm” aphids and mealy bugs for their honeydew. We have tons of ladybugs but they are useless if the ants are protecting the pests.

Cornmeal – Corn Gluten Meal can be used as an effective preemergent herbicide, but most of us don’t have that just laying around. Cornmeal, however, is an effective soil fungicide. For ever 100 sq ft, work 2 lbs of cornmeal into the soil. Water well. One application per season is all that is needed.

Dryer Sheets – If you’re having a picnic or BBQ and are being plagued by yellow jackets, aka meat bees, and mosquitos, place dryer sheets around the area to deter them.

Eggshells – Save all of your eggshells! Rinse them and then crush them when they are dry. When preparing a planting bed for tomatoes or peppers add the eggshells (approx. shells from 1 dozen eggs per plant) to the planting hole to avoid blossom end rot.

Milk
Epsom Salts – Epsom salts contain sulfer and magnesium and are good for using as a foliar fertilizer. Dissolve 2 Tbs Epsom Salts in 1 gallon of water. Mist plants as a foliar feeding.
Milk – Dilute milk in a 1:1 ration with water. Spray your tomato and pepper plants weekly to avoid blossom end rot.

Rubbing Alcohol – Apply 70% isopropyl alcohol to a cotton ball and apply to scale insects. The alcohol dessicates them. Rub them off when they’re dead so you can continue to monitor their levels.

Shampoo – Mix 2.5 Tbs Shampoo and 2.5 Tbs cooking oil with 1 gallon of water. Spray insect pests with mixture to control them. Do not use in full sun and a few hours after application rinse off plant to reduce injury.

If you have other household garden remedies, please share them!

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The Barrier Method – Or Getting Ready for a Night Out on the Town

Not what you thought, huh?

Whenever someone asks why we have pantyhose on our apples and pears Tom responds with “They’re getting ready for a night out on the town.” Yes, it looks a bit odd to have pantyhose covered fruit hanging off of a tree, but I’m telling you it really helps keep the OMG-I-just-bit-a-worm-in-half-while-biting-into-this-apple-surprises to a minimum.

Oh the codling moth. We don’t have a problem with them yet, but I don’t want to encourage them so I’m proactive with keeping them out of our fruit trees. Bagging them is the most effective organic control for codling moth and doesn’t need any additional controls.

Unfortunately it’s really time consuming so it’s really only useful for backyard growers with small trees. I spent 2 hours and I only got about 2/3s of the tree done. I’ve actually been dreading doing this so I’ve procrastinated. Hopefully I didn’t wait too long. You’re supposed to bag them when the fruit is only about a 1/2″ in diameter. As you can see from these fruitlets, they are much larger than that. The one thing that is on my side though is this weather. It hasn’t gotten warm yet and they don’t start getting active until the sunset temperature reaches the mid ’60s.

We used these nylon covers last year with good success. Unfortunately they don’t stop the squirrels from taking chomps out of the apples.

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Reader Questions: Goats, Gophers and Bunnies

We got some great questions to go over today!

The first is from the Metropolitan Homestead:
I’d like to ask how you got started with milking goats and how much daily work they really need.


Our girls Daisy (front) and Bella (back)

We had been thinking for quite awhile about getting goats but at first we didn’t think we had the space to keep them. We were then introduced to Kitty from Havenscourt Homestead in Oakland, who was raising 4 goats (she has 5 plus 3 kids right now) on her 4,000 sf lot. She gave us a consultation on goats and we quickly realized that they were totally feasible for us. In February of 2010 we got our first two does.

In October we felt it was time to breed them, so we “rented” a buck from one of Tom’s friends who raised the same breed. We kept him at our house for about 40 days to make sure that our girls were pregnant. Bella got pregnant 3 weeks before Daisy, which was nice because it gave us some breathing room between kiddings. Bella kidded in late March and Daisy kidded in early April. For the first two weeks after kidding we let the kids have all the milk. This is not only to get them stronger faster, but also the milk during those first two weeks still has colostrum in it which isn’t particularly appetizing. Some people take the kids away and bottle feed them but because we work full time, this wasn’t feasible.

Before we even bred them, we started working with them on the stanchion- which is a milking stand – to get them used to it and used to us touching their teats and udders. It took some time, but now they are dolls (for the most part) while getting milked.

As for daily work, it depends on how much you want to play with them. Since we still have the kids we only milk once a day, but once they are gone we’ll be milking them twice a day. Milking usually takes about 15 minutes and it needs to be done at 12 hour intervals. Feeding and watering are daily, of course, and we give them dairy pellet twice a day. It’s good to spend a little bit of time observing them each day to make sure everyone is healthy. Other than that, it’s not a huge block of time. As long as you have at least two, they are happy.

Rebekah Clarke asks:
Do you have gopher problems? I lost a lot of plants to gopher problems and I would love to hear solutions people have.
We currently don’t have gophers (knock on wood) but at our previous house they were a concern. Chicken wire with the smaller cells and hardware cloth (wire mesh) are your best defenses. For young trees you want to create a basket that’s twice as wide and deep as the rootball to plant the tree in. For vegetable beds your best bet is raised beds with the chicken wire or hardware cloth between the ground and the bed. Of course, after several years, the wire will need to be replaced because it will rust and won’t be able to protect against the determined little buggers.

Lucy with her kits

Justin Wandro asks:
How long do you keep the baby rabbits in with the mother before moving them out to their own cage. Also do you buy feed for the rabbits or grow your own?
If we’re planning on breeding again we generally start removing them at 6 weeks old. We only remove one at a time (males first starting with the largest) to help our doe dry up her milk slowly so it’s less uncomfortable for her. If we don’t plan to breed right away we’ll only remove the males at 7 weeks old and leave her daughters in with her until they get too big and they need their own space.

We both buy and feed them what we’ve grown. If you want to feed them forage just make sure they get the proper nutrition so they grow up healthy and strong.

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Weeds

Every gardener has a weed that they curse at. For me it used to be Bermuda grass. I hated it. Our last house had a backyard covered with the stuff. If you don’t pull it all up, any little bit would grow and spread like wildfire. But we were able to control it to a point. It helped that our yard was a much smaller size than it is now. We rototilled (while battling the knots it would create while fighting back to save itself) then laid down black plastic for a year. When we pulled it up, most of it was dead and anything that came back we could easily remove. I also found that it responded well to various herbicides when it got too out of hand. I generally like to use organic methods in the garden, but sometimes I just can’t find something that will work well against those hard to fight weeds.

So as prepared as I was for the unholiness of Bermuda grass when we moved into our current home, it was no match to the new evil that lurked dormant under our freshly tilled soil. It started with little green sprouts…everywhere. I would pull them only to have five take their place the next day. Of course pulling them didn’t help because the sprouts were so tender that they’d break off right under the soil level. This new weed had me at my wits end. What did we have? What spawn of Satan had dug itself into our new vegetable garden? Bindweed of course! Oh it has such pretty morning glory flowers. Don’t let it fool you.

Our lot had been vacant for a year and a half and none of the previous owners actually did anything with it so it made sense that this weed would take over. Then we rototilled not knowing that we had this pest plaguing our yard. It chopped up all of those roots which then sprouted in the thousands when the rains came and the soil warmed up. The hard part was getting rid of it. Or should I say the hard part IS getting rid of it? This seems to be a never ending battle. We had few victories last year. Digging it up seemed a daunting task. Sometimes the small, wayward root fragment would be as deep as 14″ or more. Flame weeders don’t work. They only killed the sprouts, which is always just temporary. They just can’t reach the root. Herbicides didn’t work. After spraying the plant would start to yellow. Our hopes would raise and then come crashing down around us the next week when they would become green again.

Now we’ve resorted to double digging our beds, which allows us to pull out the roots and dispose of them properly (flaming inferno maybe?). So far so good. The beds we have finished double digging don’t have nearly as many sprouts as the beds that are still awaiting their destiny.

We also got a large amount of burlap sacks and lots of mulch in hopes of smothering a large portion of them. 

Wish us luck and I hope you never have to deal with this horrid weed.

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Natural Pest Control

A family of owls live in our neighbor’s owl box
If you grow and raise any food you likely have pests. Insects, while small, make up for it in sheer numbers. We deal with insect pests by create habitats around our garden that welcome beneficial insects that feed on the pests. These areas tend to not look very good but I’m fine with that because it helps us. I’d much rather have a disheveled area in my yard than have to resort to using pesticides – even organic ones.
Livestock bring another pest – rodents. Well, that’s not entirely fair. Urban areas in general bring rodents. They like our garbage. Have a compost bin? You’ve probably got some rats or mice living in or very close to it. Live near a restaurant or grocery store? Yeah, you’ve probably got a problem with rodents. You may not see them, but I can guarantee they are there.
If you have livestock you have to be very mindful about keeping their population down because they are drawn to the feed in particular. We keep all of our animal feed either stored inside or stored in metal trash cans with weighted lids. Plastic is only temporary in the eyes of a rodent. If they are determined enough they can chew right through it. Our chickens have a feeder that hangs well out of the reach of rodents – about 5′ in the air to be exact. Our chickens have to hop up a series of roosts to get to it.
We do use snap traps with some success as well. Heidi, at Itty Bitty Farm in the City, was another great non-toxic way to deal with rodents outlined by Esperanza (Pluck and Feather) here,but I haven’t tried it yet. If we get to a point where we have to do something drastic, I wouldn’t hesitate to use her method. So far, though we haven’t had to go that route, and I think I need to thank the owls for that.
Our neighbors told us that at one time our water tower was a dilapidated building on the brink of falling down. While humans wouldn’t venture to go in it, barn owls made it their home. Unfortunately, the horrible people that owned the house before us decided that they needed to rid the tower of owls and destroyed all the eggs by having contest on who could throw them the furthest from the top of the tower. The thought of their actions makes me sick to my stomach and makes me glad that they were foreclosed on.
Our neighbors were rightly appalled at their actions too. They immediately put up an owl box to try and bring the owls back to our neighborhood. The owl box stood empty for years and we wondered if they would ever return. But this year they came back! Not only did they come back, but now the chicks are fledging and we can hear they every night teaching them how to hunt.
They provide us with a way to keep pests down while also giving us a bit of entertainment – though at times it’s quite creepy. They like to sit in the trees surrounding our property and screech at us any time we go outside. Maybe they are telling us to stop scaring away their food? One night, while Jeanette was staying here she had the tower balcony door open. One of the owls perched itself on the balcony railing and screeched non-stop at Jeanette. I can laugh at that, but Jeanette was pretty creeped out. After all, in some Native American cultures they signify an approaching death.
They will always be welcome here. Now we just need to put up a bat box to take care of the insects….
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Soil Testing 101

Soil testing is incredibly important when you’re planning to produce food from your yard. It tells you what you’ve got and what you need. Plants won’t give you their best if they don’t have the proper nutrients or proper pH levels. The three most common nutrients, referred to as macronutrients, that plants need are Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium usuallyreferred to as NPK. But NPK isn’t the only thing you need to know the levels of in your soil. Other important nutrients, or micronutrients, include magnesium, calcium (especially important for tomatoes, peppers and eggplants), manganese, and iron (especially important for citrus). You can also test to find out what contaminates you have in your soil, which is incredibly important if you live in an urban area and are growing food.
 It’s also important to know what your soil structure is and how much organic matter is in it. This affects your watering and plants’ ability to take up that water. High clay soils are more prone to run off and take longer for water to infiltrate, while sandy soils drain very fast and don’t hold enough water long enough for plants to access it.
So how does one go about finding out all this information? Well, you could buy one of those at-home soil tests, but I wouldn’t recommend it. I have found these dreadfully inaccurate. They also don’t give you all the information you need to determine what is in your soil. Instead you will need to find a soil lab that can do the testing for you. I use A&L Western
Agricultural Labs
. You simply print out their form, fill a quart sized Ziploc bag with soil and ship it, the form and a check to them and they will email you the results.  I choose their SC3 Soils Analysis with recommendations. Here’s a soils report from them with the recommendations included:
You can also find a soils laboratory through your county extension or local university.
To determine the structure of your soil you can do a home test. All you need is water and a jar. Simply add 1 part soil to 2 parts water in the jar. Close lid and shake for 1 minute. Allow this mixture to settle.
This can take between a couple of hours to a couple of days depending on your soil’s structure. The first particles to settle will be the sand since they are larger and heavier. Silt is the second particle followed by clay, which are the smallest and lightest soil particles.
From this test it appears that our soil is equal parts of clay, silt and sand, but what does that mean? Well, take a look at this handy soil structure diagram to determine what structure the soil is:
As you can see, where the 30% lines of each side of the triangle meet to form a triangle we are dead center in the Clay Loam category. Loam is considered the best balanced soil structure because it offers both optimum water retention and water drainage. Clay loam will not drain as quickly, but it retains water well. The most common and concerning soil structure is clay soil. Clay soil can be very difficult on plants as it doesn’t drain well and makes it difficult for water to percolate in. It also contains a lot fewer air pockets with roots need. If you have clay soil, your best option is to dig in a lot of organic matter. An easier option, however, is to forgo using this soil and just build raised beds.
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Reader Questions – Baking Soda and Vinegar vs. Greywater

Once a month I’ll be answering your questions! Ask them in an email (if you want to be anonymous just say so) or just leave a comment – I’ll find them and answer them the best I can.

So here is one I found in our comments that I haven’t had a chance to answer…until now.

From Pamina:
…we are trying to do the bathtub to garden water thing, so have been leary of the baking soda & vinegar shampoo. It seems like that wouldn’t be good for the garden, no? Right now we use the oasis bio compatible soaps, but would love to switch to something more simple. 

I would think baking soda and vinegar would be fine in the garden. Did you ever do that experiment in elementary school with the volcano? You mixed vinegar and baking soda together and it bubbled out like lava. This reaction between vinegar and baking soda  creates CO2 (the bubbles), pure water, and a very dilute solution of sodium acetate. Since you’re already using a diluted amount of both baking soda and vinegar in relation to the amount of water you’re using in the shower the amount of sodium acetate would be negligible.

I did find this information regarding an alternative deicer that utilizes Sodium acetate:

The environmental impacts of Ice Shear™, an alternative highway deicer, have been evaluated using standard laboratory tests; biochemical oxygen demand (BOD) tests, chemical oxygen demand (COD) tests, acute rainbow trout bioassays, and phytotoxicity tests were used. Ice Shear consists of equimolar sodium acetate and sodium formate. The organic matter of the deicer can be readily degraded microbiologically in the natural environment with a slow rate of degradation at lower temperatures but an increased rate at higher temperatures. At elevated temperatures, highway runoffs of the deicer may reduce the level of dissolved oxygen in the receiving waters to cause an adverse impact. However, the apparent activation energy calculated for the BOD rate of Ice Shear is low (8.78 kcal mole−1), indicating that the temperature variation may not significantly influence the biodegradation of the deicer compound. Ice Shear appears relatively harmless to aquatic animals, showing a high 96-h LC50 value (16.1 g/L) derived for rainbow trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss). Ice Shear causes minimal toxicity to representative roadside vegetation; herbaceous (e.g., sunflowers, beans, and lettuce) and woody (e.g., pine seedlings) plants. Rather, the deicer at low concentrations (less than 2 g/kg soil) seems to work as a fertilizer, promoting the yield of biomass. The test results indicate that Ice Shear poses minimal environmental disturbance in both aquatic and terrestrial ecosystems.

So, in my opinion, the baking soda and vinegar should be a-ok for using.

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Tips from a Frugal Vegetable Gardener

There are lots of garden items that we need throughout the year. Whether they are trellises for climbing plants or tomato cages, compost bins or even just name tags for your transplants, it all adds up and can get quite expensive. So here are some cheap, or even free ways to create items you need for your garden.

1. Trellises – Tom works for an electrical supply company. They usually end up throwing out all sorts of items that are damaged, including dented 1/2″ conduit pipe. It’s galvanized to keep it from rusting and it makes great stakes and tepee type trellises. We use nylon contractor’s string to keep it together because it doesn’t break down like twine and you can use it year after year. Get in contact with a local electrical company and see if they are willing to give you their bent or dented conduit. You can also use PVC irrigation pipe, but if it’s white, just realize that it will eventually break down with UV exposure (ending up in the landfill) and that it should NEVER be burned (it releases dioxin, a highly toxic compound). We also use old metal railings that a friend took off of their porch to replace.

Conduit Tepees with contractor string
used here for peas
2. Tomato Cages – The tomato “cages” they sell at most nurseries and box stores are a complete joke. They completely self destruct when a tomato gets above 12″ tall. I’m actually surprised they still sell them. There are other brands of cages out there but they are usually pretty expensive (ranging from $8-15) and when you grow more than 20 plants, like us, they are definitely not economical. So instead we use concrete reinforcement mesh. A sheet of it runs $7-8 but lasts for years and doesn’t collapse under the weight of the tomatoes. They are large enough that you can put 2 tomato plants in each cage. You simply wrap it into a cylinder and connect the ends with baling wire. It’s simple, it’s cheap and it’s strong enough to hold up to even the most loaded of tomato plants. And more importantly the spaces between the welded wire are easy to slip your hand into to pick giant tomatoes. You can pick up concrete mesh at most hardware stores. When you don’t need it you can simple cut the baling wire and lay it flat. I’ve also heard of people cutting the panels into thirds and baling those together so that they fold when not in use. 
Concrete Reinforcing Mesh Tomato Cage

3. Compost Bin – Have you ever been flabbergasted by the price of those black compost bins? $75-150 for a box of black plastic. Well, you don’t need something that fancy. Go to a warehouse and ask them if you can have their old pallets. These work great. Just stand them up, lash or nail them together and viola! You’ve got a compost bin that allows plenty of airflow. Now, they don’t last too long because the wood will eventually rot, however, it’s free and you can easily replace it. For us though, we create too much compostable waste. We had two of those bins and filled them both within a couple of months. Not to mention we keep forgetting to turn them. So now we let our chickens do it. We just pile everything into their run and as it breaks down it gets lots of bugs and worms that the chickens scratch for, turning the pile. It’s a win-win. They do all the work while they get all the goodies. 

4. Name Tags for Transplants – If you have kids or just like popsicles as much as we do, then you know you can end up with quite a few popsicle sticks. So we reuse these as plant tags. They aren’t permanent, but they do work for a season. Make sure to put the plant names on them with permanent ink (I like to use Sharpie) because otherwise, when they start to get a little old and waterlogged it gets to be impossible to read them if you use pencil or a ball point pen. Another option is to use old mini blinds cut into 6-8″ long strips. Write on them with pencil, which won’t run.

Plant tags made from popcicle sticks in reused pots
5. Seedling Pots – Contact a local nursery and many of them will have extra plastic pots. Also hit up all your friends and family. Ask them to hang onto pots for you to use.You can also use yogurt containers. Just remember to put holes in the bottoms for drainage.

6. Mulch – Mulch is expensive. It usually runs about $25-27/cubic yard. When you have a large area that can just be too much. We used straw for a long time, but it breaks down too fast and can sometimes have a lot of seeds in it. So now we call our local tree service. They dump whatever they have on hand in our driveway and we move it to where we need. It’s completely free and it keeps it from going to the dump – saving the tree service money. It’s a win-win for both sides.

7. Compost – Bagged compost is ridiculously expensive. Our city takes yard refuse and then composts it. We used to then make a trip to the dump and get our truck bed filled with compost for a whopping $3.81. Check out your local refuse company and see if they have a similar program. If they don’t let them know that they should. They won’t do it if they don’t think there is a demand for it. Nowadays our chickens, goats and rabbits give us all the compost and manure we need.

8. Garden Cloche – Little greenhouses for your individual transplants when the night temperatures are still a bit chilly. The traditional ones are made of glass and can be very pricey. The cheap version is plastic milk gallon jugs. Cut the bottoms off and just place over the plant. Remove the cap in the morning to allow air flow and to avoid overheating during the day. Replace the cap in the evening. If where you live is breezy you can use a straightened out coat hanger (but leave the hook end) and stick it into the ground through the center of the jug (avoiding the plant below) and have the hook part go over the lip of the jug to help hold it down. The downside though is you won’t be able to use the lid. Another option is to use the hook end on the handle of the jug, but it’s not as good at keep the jug in place.

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Monday’s Guests – White Vinegar and Diatomaceous Earth

Today’s guest post is from Brad of Highly Uncivilized. We’ve featured a post from him before and next week we’ll have a follow up to that one. But for today he’s going to discuss two fantastic organic methods for controlling pests and weeds. We use Diatomaceous Earth here as natural flea, mite, and lice control with great results. 
——————————————————
Controlling pests organically with these two simple ingredients

We are controlling ants with Diatomaceous Earth. We used this years ago in Texas to control beetles and cockroaches and I had forgotten how well it worked then. In this house there are two places we normally deal with ants all season. Ant spray gave me a nasty headache so I stopped using that. I also tried to control them with poison, which didn’t really work, and ant traps, which also didn’t work. Then I just gave up and would sweep them out of the garage every couple of weeks. That also didn’t work.

controlling ants with diatomaceous earth So far this works.

I got Food Grade DE on Amazon.com but you can get it anywhere. I got Food Grade so I don’t have to worry about any other Bonus ingredients being in it and I can use it by the food garden. Someone asked about the kind you get for the pool filter – I don’t know but I’m guessing that’s Pool Filter Grade? Unless you can get some expert advice, get Food Grade if you use it by food.

Here is some great background info on using DE.

As far as weeds, we have plans to add White Clover, Dandelions and some other productive ground cover and more edible weeds. I’m learning that the best weed control is overgrowing with plants you want to have there. There are only two areas of the yarden where we control the weeds at all, the rest of the weeds we Overgrow with (mainly) edible weeds or just let them go.

One area of the yarden gets no additional water after the spring rain, so these weeds are robust, and living in sun dried clay. A simple mist of vinegar seems to take them down, but I may have to do this on a more regular basis.

It is worth the extra effort to NEVER have to use something like Roundup. But I anticipate long term having to exert less effort.


In the area of the yard where the dogs play we have grass and an unwatered “patch” that will someday be a deck. In this patch we get weeds that are bad for dogs, like Foxtails, and weeds that produce a lot of seeds that blow into the grass. Since the grass is organic it makes it harder to keep it weed free, so I want to control these weeds and the weeds that popup in the sidewalk around the front grass.

We have started controlling these unruly weeds with a spray bottle of white vinegar. White vinegar is very acidic so don’t get any in your eyes and take precautions with gloves if it bothers your skin. I used it to clean a lot of stuff and it doesn’t bother me, but you may be different.  I’m not different, I’m unique.

white vinegar for weed control I’ll let you know how this white vinegar weed thing works throughout the season, but so far so good as you can see by the pictures from a couple of weeks ago when we started. Next season I will put down seeds for ground cover just before the rain and then I can proactively choose the KINDS of weeds we get. Then they’re not really weeds anymore I guess.

The only downside to spraying weeds with white vinegar is that it honest-to-gosh starts smelling like a tasty wild salad, and then I get hungry.

Several other areas of organic weed control aside from overgrowing are mowing high, using organic pre-emergents that stop seeds from germinating, and controlling soil pH. An interesting thing I’ve been learning about soil pH management is that the effect has less to do with the plant itself and more to do with the impact to the bacteria and fungus required to support that particular type of plant in the root system. More on that later.

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Appreciating the Holes

People are picky. They are used to buying perfect produce at the supermarket. Even the certified organic produce is pretty without very many flaws.

Honestly, I used to be one of those picky people. That was until I started growing my own food. Holes happen. Since growing my own food I have to wonder how even organic food is so flawless. Then I realize that just because it’s organic it can still be drenched in chemicals. It just happens to be chemicals that are from “natural” sources.

We don’t spray anything. The only thing we do use is some Sluggo (iron phospate) around new seedlings to give them a fighting chance against our onslaught of slugs and snails. Now that we have ducks roaming our garden we have to be especially careful about what we spray. 

I’ve opened up enough heads of cabbage filled with slugs and worms (earthworms, which perplexes me – a whole other post) and found enough dead earwigs in cooked artichokes to get over my pickiness. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not racing to eat a slug even by accident and I do cut out the damaged parts, but some holes in a couple of leaves doesn’t make the entire thing garbage. When you put a lot of effort into growing food you realize that holes aren’t scary.

I think it was Lynda Hopkins that said in her book The Wisdom of the Radish “If the bugs won’t eat it you probably don’t want to either.”

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