What the Fodder?

eatingHave you seen the new biggest craze in livestock feed?

It takes just about a week to grow and increases your feed by up to 6x* by weight. It’s highly nutritious and provides 20% protein by dry weight. You can feed it to poultry, rabbits, ruminants, horses, just about any grass-loving livestock animal around.

When my friend, Brande, first told me about it I wasn’t so sure. I had heard great things about it but had only seen these huge, incredibly expensive setups for large livestock operations. I hadn’t even thought that it was possible to do fodder without one of these setups.

What in the hell was I thinking? Nowadays everything can be done DIY so why couldn’t making fodder? It would just require a bit more labor on my part.

dry

Cleaned barley with hulls intact (unhulled)

There are really only about 3 things you absolutely have to have: seed, water and planting trays with drainage holes. There’s no need for soil or fertilizer. Because we have a mild climate I’m just growing mine outside on a table. The best seed to use is barley as it has the highest nutrition and protein of all the other grain seeds. I can get an 80lb bag of barley for just over $18. You can try to find hulled barley but I find that unhulled seems to work fine. When watering, I recapture the water that drains to reuse.

soaking

Soaking barley in a bucket

You only want to put about a 1/2″ of barley in your tray. It really does swell up and I found that with 3lbs of barley the tray was busting out at the walls. Before you start with making fodder you need to soak the barley for 6-8 hours in water. This degrades germination inhibitors in the seeds (this is why you should also soak peas and legumes before planting). You want to cover the barley with enough water so that when it expands it remains covered.

Day1

Just starting to germinate.

Once your soaking is over pour the seed and water into your tray and then rinse the seed. Cover your tray so that it remains dark to help encourage germination. Above is the day after soaking. Small root tips begin to show up at the ends of the seed.

Day2

At this point you’ll begin to see the layer of seeds expand in size.

Water your seed 2-3 times a day. You want to keep it from drying out too much. By the second day after soaking you’ll start to see more of the roots.

day3

Time to uncover the seed so that it gets light. I simply use a burlap sac to cover the trays.

The following day small bits of green will poke their heads out of the layer of seeds and roots. It will soon be growing so fast you can almost watch it. By now you can take the cover off because you want the grass blades to develop chlorophyll and energy.

Day4

A nice green layer is beginning to form.

On the fourth day after soaking you’ll be seeing the beginning of a nice little green carpet. It’s not much yet but the following day you’ll be amazed.

Day5

Once it reaches this point it grows quickly.

Day 5 and it’s starting to look like turf. Keep watering at least twice a day.

Day6

From day 6 to day 7 the fodder is the most nutritious.

By day 6 you’re almost ready to feed it. Supposedly this is when the nutrition of the grass begins to peak.

mat

Roots, seed and leaf in one tidy package.

On day 7 it’s time to feed the fodder. You can see here the awesome layer of roots, seeds and grass. Poultry and ruminants will consume all these parts. Rabbits generally only like the greens. I started with 3lbs of seed and produced nearly 15lbs of fodder. It took my hens a couple of days to eat one tray’s worth of fodder. If you start a new tray ever day or every couple of days you’ll have a constant supply of fodder to feed.

*I’ve only seen about a 5x increase but I’ve heard that 6x is also possible.

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Milk Wars: Sedona vs. the Ghetto Goats

milk wars copy

We’ve now been milking Sedona for 7 months. For the first couple of months, she was the only one we were milking and she gave a good deal more milk, about 50-75% more than the Ghetto Goats individually had when we were milking them. In all fairness, Daisy was a first freshener* and Bella was a second freshener, while Sedona is a third freshener. Even though she is only ahead of Bella by one freshening, it was clear that she was a better producer than the Ghetto Goats. That’s to be expected though since Sedona is a Nigerian Dwarf, a dairy breed, and the Ghetto Goats are, well, not a dairy breed. I usually just call the Ghetto Goats “Old World Pygmies” because they don’t look at all like the breed standard. They’re just not cobby (though Bella could fool you this year with her super fluffy winter coat) like pedigreed/registered pygmy goats.

We’ll be breeding Bella again soon. She’ll then be a third freshener so we can see how well she does compared to Sedona. I’m also interested in seeing how long Sedona will produce. The Ghetto Goats went strong for 15 months until we decided to dry them off because we bred them again (Bella didn’t settle though). Surprisingly Bella still had enough milk left when Panda was just a few days old that we could use her to feed Panda when Daisy was suffering from milk fever and didn’t have enough milk to feed her.

The real difference though is in the milk. While Sedona’s milk is OK, it’s a bit bland compared to the Ghetto Goats’ milk. I would almost say the flavor is flat comparatively  It also turns goaty before the Ghetto Goat milk does. The Ghetto Goat milk is much richer and sweeter than Sedona’s milk because it has a higher fat content. The cream rises in the Ghetto Goat milk after just a day. For those of you that milk goats you know what a big deal that can be since goat milk is naturally homogenized and the general rule of thumb is not to expect much cream. For those that don’t milk, it’s one of the reasons it’s so difficult to find goat butter.

Milk stand attitude goes to Sedona. She calmly stands still and lets me adjust her legs while milking. Daisy, on the other hand, likes to get pissy on the milk stand. She likes to hold her legs together blocking me from reaching her teats, and sometimes, if I try to move her legs she’ll throw a little kick my way. Her other preferred milking stance is the squat, hoping I can’t reach her teats. She really likes to do this when it’s time to dip her teats after milking. Fortunately she stopped laying down. In addition, Daisy has to also wear a special collar made from a 1 gallon plant pot to keep her from self-sucking (more on that later). Bella, is less of an issue with the milking but isn’t as calm as Sedona and she does have a tendency to throw the occasional temper tantrum.

The process of milking, other than attitude, has to go to the Ghetto Goats. They have super-sized teats which makes for less hand cramping and faster milking – a good thing with uncooperative goats. Sedona has small teats (though large orifices) so it takes longer to milk her. In addition, because of their size, I’m the only one that can milk her since Tom’s hands are too large. Sedona also has a tendency to hold back a lot of milk.

Milk Wars Score Card

  • Quantity: Sedona
  • Lactation Length: No Clear Winner Yet
  • Quality: The Ghetto Goats
  • Attitude: Sedona
  • Ease of Milking: The Ghetto Goats

So far it’s a tie. We’ll have to see how long Sedona can produce milk before we call this one.

*Freshening is the goat-term that refers to how many times they’ve kidded. With each kidding their milk production increases.

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All About Poop – Using Manure in the Garden

This afternoon while I was prepping a new bed for garlic it dawned on me that I should probably pay attention to which manure and bedding I add to it. Being a root vegetable I didn’t want to add high nitrogen to the bed because that would stimulate too much top growth and the energy of the plant wouldn’t be used for making those big, juicy cloves on the bulb.What I would need is a manure that helps promote root growth. Ideally this would be a manure that was high in phosphorus but lower in nitrogen. Potassium is the third micronutrient and is used by the plant for overall vigor and disease resistance so it would be OK if this was high as well.

One of the benefits to keeping all of our animals in separate housing is that I can pick and choose who has the most appropriate manure for each bed. I can also choose when in the growing season I can apply each manure. In general chicken, turkey and goat are considered “hot” and need to be composted first. We usually put these down right after harvest and let them sit until we plant again. Rabbit, on the other hand, does not need to be composted first so we like to use this during the growing season. Additionally, the bedding that is mixed in with the manures really helps improve our heavy clay soil.

Here are the average numbers for common livestock manures that are readily accessible to us. The numbers correspond with N-P-K (Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium) and are percent of dry weight.

Goat 1.5 – 1.5 – 3.0

*Horse 2.3 – 0.9 – 1.7

Poultry 3.2 – 5.2 – 1.8

Rabbit 2.4 – 1.4 – 0.6

Steer 1.7 – 1.2 – 3.0

If you want to get really technical determining how much of each type of manures you should add you can do some calculations. Since growing food isn’t a business for us it’s not really worth it to have all the manure sent out to have it tested and then weigh everything before applying the manure. For home garden it can be more of an approximation based on the needs of different crops and what the different manures contain.

What I chose to use for the garlic was the old bedding from the goat yard that also included chicken manure from when the chickens were housed with them. This will be what I use for root vegetables. Once it runs out then I’ll mix the poultry and goat manure together to reach the same numbers. For other crops here is what I’ll be using where. (Nutrient requirements based on info in The Vegetable Gardener’s Bible)

Nutrient Requirements” N=high; P=high; K=high

Combination of poultry and rabbit manure (or poultry and horse)

  • Artichokes
  • Broccoli
  • Cabbage
  • Cauliflower
  • Celery
  • Corn
  • Dill
  • Lettuce
  • Peppers
  • Potatoes
  • Tomatoes

Nutrient Requirements” N=high; P=moderate; K=moderate

Rabbit manure (or horse)

  • Asparagus
  • Mustard
  • Summer Squash
  • Winter Squash

Nutrient Requirements” N=high; P=low; K=low

Rabbit manure (or horse)

  • Carrots
  • Parnips

Nutrient Requirements” N=moderate; P=moderate; K=moderate

Combination of poultry and goat manure (or poultry and steer)

  • Garlic
  • Chives
  • Jerusalem Artichokes
  • Kale
  • Kohlrabi
  • Leeks
  • Okra
  • Onions
  • Parsley
  • Spinach
  • Strawberries

Nutrient Requirements” N=moderate; P=high; K=high

Goat manure (or steer)

  • Brussels Sprouts
  • Cucumber
  • Eggplant

Nutrient Requirements” N=moderate; P=low; K=low

Rabbit manure (or horse)

  • Fennel

Nutrient Requirements” N=low; P=high; K=high

Goat manure (or steer)

  • Melons
  • Watermelons

Nutrient Requirements” N=low; P=moderate; K=moderate

Goat manure (or steer)

  • Bush Beans
  • Pole Beans
  • Beets
  • Swiss Chard

Nutrient Requirements” N=low; P=low; K=low

Light on the goat manure (or steer)

  • Arugula
  •  Basil
  • Cilantro
  • Horseradish
  • Marjoram
  • Oregano
  • Peas
  • Radishes
  • Rhubarb
  • Sage
  • Sunflowers
  • Sweet Potatoes
  • Tarragon
  • Tomatillos
  • Turnips

Of course nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are not the only nutrients plants need, nor are they only nutrients found in manure. Manure also contains calcium, magnesium, zinc, sulfur and various levels of other nutrients. Composted manure also contains a lot of beneficial microorganisms which help break down nutrients and make them available to plants. The addition of carbon (bedding) makes the perfect mix of nitrogen and carbon for composting. It wasn’t until we got chickens and started adding their bedding to our compost pile were we finally able to get it hot. Our livestock manure is actually mixed in with composted kitchen scraps and yard waste to add another level of nutrients.

It’s not just about nutrients when it comes to manure and compost. The addition of it greatly improves the soil structure such as loosening heavy clay soil or increasing water retention in sandy soils. In my opinion adding compost and/or manure is really the only way to go when trying to improve your soil. You just can’t have healthy, nutritious food without healthy soil.

*Horse manure is commonly available for free or very low cost at boarding stables. Be aware, however, that if the animals are pastured it could be high in weed seeds unless it is properly composted at a high enough temperature.

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The Last Kid of the Year

Daisy kidded last night. This was only her second freshening and again she had a single kid. I was sure she’d have more than just one but nope, just the one. This time, however, she had a single doeling which proved to be much easier on her than last year’s single buckling. The doeling is very healthy and active, stood up really quickly and was able to nurse with just a little help from us.

This little doeling showed up around 11:30pm last night.  By midnight she was nursing all on her own without needing any help to find the teat. While I’m pretty tired, I’m very happy it wasn’t a repeat of last year’s 3:30am difficult kidding.

This picture isn’t the greatest. Daisy is an aggressive licker and kept moving around her so we couldn’t get a good shot. What you don’t see really well is her really cool markings. She’s got a dorsal stripe down the white part of her back and then the diagonal lines on her legs.

This little girl doesn’t have a name yet as she’s going to a new home when she’s weaned. We’re just waiting for her soon-to-be-owner to tell us what name she would like to use.

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Fat Goat

Big ol’ Tubby McTubberson’s over here. OK, she’s not fat. Goats, like cows have a rumen which is one of four stomachs. The rumen is basically a big fermentation vat and breaks down the vegetative matter allowing nutrients to be absorbed. Well it gets burped up in the process and chewed as cud for a bit.  A healthy rumen will give them a big belly making them look like rolly polly little buggers.

But Daisy isn’t fat and this picture isn’t some ginormous rumen. Nope, she’s got some babies up in that tummy. And they are due this weekend. I’m really hoping she’s not doing an encore of last year. I’m just not up for sitting with her until 3am to deliver this huge kid that she needs help delivering. She’s much bigger than she was last year. She’s either got an even bigger kid in there or she’s got multiples. My bets are multiples since we can feel at least two in there.

In other goat news, Bella got a reprieve. She is not pregnant which I am TOTALLY OK with. The last thing I wanted to do was milk 3 goats every morning before work. Just not my idea of fun.

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Shelter in Place

Yesterday there was an explosion followed by a fire at a local refinery. Fortunately for us the plume of smoke decided to travel in the exact opposite direction of where we live. We couldn’t even see it off in the distance. Which is a good thing for us. Not so good for those that were in its path. They had to shelter in place.

It did get me thinking though. If the winds were going in the other direction could we mitigate for such an event? Maybe but it would require some work. Last year Farmer Lynda wrote a great post right after the Fukushima meltdown about the tough decisions she would have to make if there was nuclear fallout.

The turkeys, though they would be unhappy about it, could be kept safe in Turkey Town. The chickens would be tricky because we’d have to quickly figure out a way to keep them confined to their indoor coop (which opens up to their yard directly). Not impossible, but it would take a little bit of time. The goats have plenty of indoor space that they could be confined to easily without much work on our part. Probably the best option would be to throw the chickens in with the goats temporarily – it’s not like they haven’t lived together before. The rabbits could pose a problem. The bottom of the rabbitry is open to allow their waste to fall away from them. Probably the best option would be to move them inside – if it’s not too hot outside.  All of our animal feed is safely stored in metal trashcans – most of which is actually indoors. Hay is also stored inside, as is bedding materials.

The vegetables and fruits are another matter entirely. How do we keep them from being covered in dangerous particulates? We’d probably need to cover everything if we can. That which can’t be covered would require us to wash and peel them or remove the outer leaves, like on cabbage, before using them. Root vegetable would remain relatively safe though. Veggies that can’t be peeled like beans, lettuce and spinach would be the priorities for covering since they aren’t easily peeled.

I’m foreseeing some small changes around here to accommodate possible emergencies.

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Goats Will Mow Your Lawn and Other Livestock Myths

Out of all the grass clippings Daisy only wanted the twig

Myth: Goats will mow your lawn.

I see this one all the time. I’ve been asked about it, I’ve heard well meaning people tell other people. It’s just one of those misconceptions that everyone seems to repeat. The “goat services” don’t really help this rumor either. Goats are not very good at mowing your lawn. The reason the “goat services” have goats grazing is because that’s all they offer the goats to eat. Also, the grass they are usually eating starts out really tall, which they like. What goats are best for is eliminating invasive plants like Scotch broom, Himalayan blackberry, and kudzu. I am now seeing changes in the goat services which are now including sheep.

Goats are browsers rather than grazers like sheep. They prefer to eat food that’s above their shoulder height. My goats won’t even eat food that is touching the ground. We have a little pasture area for our goats. They pretty much ignore it until it’s taller than them and then they will munch it down to about knee level. It’s uneven and quite unattractive so if you’re looking for a nicely trimmed lawn goats aren’t going to do the trick. But they’ll have no problem pruning destroying your roses. The benefit of having browers is that they aren’t eating off of the ground exposing themselves to parasites. The downside is that they will eat all of your plants and trees if they get out.

Myth: Turkeys are dumb.

Well, maybe some turkeys are dumb like the broad-breasted industrial turkeys. But heritage turkeys? Not that dumb actually. Sure the poults don’t know what food is and will ingest their litter until they die. I swear repeatedly and loudly when I have to herd them somewhere, which is pretty much every day – worse than herding cats by a long shot. But here’s the thing with turkeys – they aren’t instinctual like chickens. Instead they learn from their mother (or you if you are hand raising them). Poults also have really poor eyesight when they are young so you have to take certain precautions to keep them from ingesting stuff they shouldn’t if you don’t have their mom caring for them. Shiny marbles in their feed help as does using feed for litter until they are eating out of their feeder regularly.

Myth: Chickens need a rooster to lay an egg.

A chicken is going to lay an egg no matter what. The only thing a rooster determines is if that egg is fertile or not. Think of it as a chicken getting her period every time she lays an egg. Sounds pretty miserable to me.

Myth: Goats will eat anything and everything.

I remember this storybook when I was a child about a goat that ate tin cans. A goat will probably mouth a tin can but won’t ingest it. Not having fingers and being curious animals, goats use their mouths to feel stuff like we do with our hands. Feeling stuff and chewing on stuff does not mean that they eat everything. They can be quite picky in reality.

Cornish X on the left, heritage bird on the rightMyth: Meat chickens are genetically engineered and fed hormones and antibiotics to grow so large.

The Cornish X – the typical commercial meat chicken breed – is simply a hybrid breed made up of a cross of White Cornish and White Plymouth Rock breeds. It’s not a GMO but simply the result of specialized proprietary breeding lines using those two breeds. I’ve raised them organically (no medications, hormones or antibiotics) and they still grow freakishly fast.

Myth: Livestock will bring rats.

Just like if you leave out cat and dog food, if you leave out livestock feed the rats will come. Keeping the feed out of their reach by storing feed in metal cans with rodent-proof lids and hanging feeders in places that rats can’t access (from the ceiling of the coop and at least 9″ off the ground) or only feeding what can be immediately consumed you shouldn’t have a problem. Plus chickens will kill rodents. Restaurants, grocery stores and your garbage can are much larger concerns in regards to attracting rodents.

None of these bees attempted to sting me even though we were in their hive

Myth: Bees will harass you and sting you.

Bees would actually prefer not to sting you. A bee only gets one shot and if you aren’t bothering them (stepping on them or threatening their hive) they’ll leave you alone. Wasps, yellow jackets and Africanized bees are a different story and can be quite aggressive. But the honey bee is easy to live with. I regularly do maintenance around the hives in my normal clothes with no issue. The chickens like to take dust baths and sit in the shade under them.

 

 

 

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The Truth about Goat Milk

In the last week I’ve fielded the same question about goat milk at least half a dozen times. Thanks to the rules around dairy, and probably the dairy lobby, goat milk has suffered an injustice. I’ll admit that I once believed the same thing about goat milk that the people I talk to believe as well.

Goat milk tastes disgusting.

I loved the bite of a good chevre but the milk itself really made my stomach turn. One of the reasons it took us so long to finally get around to breeding our goats was because I just wasn’t prepared to force myself to like goat milk. My only experience with goat milk was of course the commercial stuff I could hunt down, which was few and far between. I thought maybe we were crazy to try and rely on goats for our dairy when I didn’t even like the milk. After we had already gotten our goats we were at a local cheesemaker’s shop. I tried some goat brie and it almost made me give up the idea for having our own milk. Disgusting was an understatement. I said to Tom “this cheese tastes like our goats smell, but stronger.” It wasn’t pleasant.

What I didn’t know almost ruined everything. As it turns out goat milk doesn’t always taste disgusting. There are many factors that go into how it tastes including the breed (the dwarf breeds have more fat in their milk and it’s sweeter and less goaty tasting), where in the lactation cycle that goat is, what they eat, and even the individual animal. But the most important factors in how the milk tastes are how clean the milking process is (no hairs get into the milk) and how fresh the milk is.

Fresh, clean goat milk tastes a lot like cow milk and doesn’t taste bad at all. Our goats’ milk is actually slightly sweeter. What a relief that was when I took the first taste of milk from my goats. After about the 4th day it starts to pick up that goat taste. We usually drink it or freeze it well before that though. We all probably know how long it can take commercial milk to get from the cow/goat to the store so it’s no wonder that the commercial goat milk, which isn’t in very high demand to begin with, would taste so strong.

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They’re Here!!!

Meet Miss Bailey.

And Mr. Whiskey.

Unfortunately I don’t have a birth story to share. Sedona did it all on her own today while we were at work. Brandy was checking on her throughout the day for us. She kidded right before her second visit. The kids were still wet when she showed up so they had probably just hit the ground. She dipped their umbilical cords (why Whiskey’s belly had an orange spot), gave Sedona some grain and gatorade and let her bond with the kids. They were already up and nursing so there wasn’t much else to do.

They are really active and healthy. They tumble around while they try to pop on unsteady legs. They climb on mom when she’s laying down.

Yes, they are ridiculously cute. Our neighbor behind us actually squealed in excitement when she saw them. They grow up so fast. I have to cherish this time while they’re small.

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Babies Soon?

Quite possibly. Sedona surprised us yesterday evening with a significantly larger udder which was even larger this morning. I’m hoping Goat Watch 2012 is nearing the end very soon.

We know for certain that she has at least two in there. You can easily feel them and they kick independently of each other. Sedona is a very long doe and when she’s not pregnant her rumen doesn’t show like on our other goats so her abdomen is never wider than her hips.  According to her previous owner, Lynda, when she had twins her first freshening she didn’t look pregnant at all. She looked only slightly pregnant her second freshening with triplets. Really there’s no way to tell how many she truly has now until they come out. She could be hiding quite a few kids in there.

By the way, I need to give a shout out to Brande for all the help she has given us through Goat Watch 2012. She has been regularly checking in on Sedona while we’re at work.

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