Goats Will Mow Your Lawn and Other Livestock Myths

Out of all the grass clippings Daisy only wanted the twig

Myth: Goats will mow your lawn.

I see this one all the time. I’ve been asked about it, I’ve heard well meaning people tell other people. It’s just one of those misconceptions that everyone seems to repeat. The “goat services” don’t really help this rumor either. Goats are not very good at mowing your lawn. The reason the “goat services” have goats grazing is because that’s all they offer the goats to eat. Also, the grass they are usually eating starts out really tall, which they like. What goats are best for is eliminating invasive plants like Scotch broom, Himalayan blackberry, and kudzu. I am now seeing changes in the goat services which are now including sheep.

Goats are browsers rather than grazers like sheep. They prefer to eat food that’s above their shoulder height. My goats won’t even eat food that is touching the ground. We have a little pasture area for our goats. They pretty much ignore it until it’s taller than them and then they will munch it down to about knee level. It’s uneven and quite unattractive so if you’re looking for a nicely trimmed lawn goats aren’t going to do the trick. But they’ll have no problem pruning destroying your roses. The benefit of having browers is that they aren’t eating off of the ground exposing themselves to parasites. The downside is that they will eat all of your plants and trees if they get out.

Myth: Turkeys are dumb.

Well, maybe some turkeys are dumb like the broad-breasted industrial turkeys. But heritage turkeys? Not that dumb actually. Sure the poults don’t know what food is and will ingest their litter until they die. I swear repeatedly and loudly when I have to herd them somewhere, which is pretty much every day – worse than herding cats by a long shot. But here’s the thing with turkeys – they aren’t instinctual like chickens. Instead they learn from their mother (or you if you are hand raising them). Poults also have really poor eyesight when they are young so you have to take certain precautions to keep them from ingesting stuff they shouldn’t if you don’t have their mom caring for them. Shiny marbles in their feed help as does using feed for litter until they are eating out of their feeder regularly.

Myth: Chickens need a rooster to lay an egg.

A chicken is going to lay an egg no matter what. The only thing a rooster determines is if that egg is fertile or not. Think of it as a chicken getting her period every time she lays an egg. Sounds pretty miserable to me.

Myth: Goats will eat anything and everything.

I remember this storybook when I was a child about a goat that ate tin cans. A goat will probably mouth a tin can but won’t ingest it. Not having fingers and being curious animals, goats use their mouths to feel stuff like we do with our hands. Feeling stuff and chewing on stuff does not mean that they eat everything. They can be quite picky in reality.

Cornish X on the left, heritage bird on the rightMyth: Meat chickens are genetically engineered and fed hormones and antibiotics to grow so large.

The Cornish X – the typical commercial meat chicken breed – is simply a hybrid breed made up of a cross of White Cornish and White Plymouth Rock breeds. It’s not a GMO but simply the result of specialized proprietary breeding lines using those two breeds. I’ve raised them organically (no medications, hormones or antibiotics) and they still grow freakishly fast.

Myth: Livestock will bring rats.

Just like if you leave out cat and dog food, if you leave out livestock feed the rats will come. Keeping the feed out of their reach by storing feed in metal cans with rodent-proof lids and hanging feeders in places that rats can’t access (from the ceiling of the coop and at least 9″ off the ground) or only feeding what can be immediately consumed you shouldn’t have a problem. Plus chickens will kill rodents. Restaurants, grocery stores and your garbage can are much larger concerns in regards to attracting rodents.

None of these bees attempted to sting me even though we were in their hive

Myth: Bees will harass you and sting you.

Bees would actually prefer not to sting you. A bee only gets one shot and if you aren’t bothering them (stepping on them or threatening their hive) they’ll leave you alone. Wasps, yellow jackets and Africanized bees are a different story and can be quite aggressive. But the honey bee is easy to live with. I regularly do maintenance around the hives in my normal clothes with no issue. The chickens like to take dust baths and sit in the shade under them.

 

 

 

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Slowing it Down

The #1 advice that I can give to people who want to get into urban farming is to take it slow. Too many people try to take everything on at once. In less than a year they’ve got the giant garden, 40 chickens, 5 goats, 12 ducks, 4 bee hives, 6 breeding rabbits, and 4 pigs. OK, I’m exaggerating, but not by much. It’s new and exciting and you want to do it all. I get it! I totally understand! But don’t do it all. At least not right away. Start small until you’re comfortable with it and then expand. But expand slowly.

Part of our garden back in 2007

I try to remind people that it’s taken Tom and I over 7 years of serious commitment to get where we are now. When you’re first learning to garden it can be overwhelming. Like many other activities it takes a lot more time to do when you’re just learning how. There are so many things to learn and pay attention to. Failure is going to happen and you can’t let it get you down. You have to pull yourself up and learn from the failures. It took me YEARS to finally grow a respectable pumpkin. I kept at it and can now grow pumpkins like this:

Squeek and her pumpkin - 2010

Nowadays we don’t spend much time gardening at all. In the spring we spend a few weekends prepping and planting and then in the summer we begin harvesting. We have automatic irrigation to take care of the watering and with wide beds weeding isn’t crucial once the plants get to a decent size. When we were comfortable with the time we were spending in the garden we got three hens.

Our first hens - 2008

Over the course of 4 years we’ve slowly added more animals and more gardening beds. We didn’t want to end up overwhelmed, which is easy to do especially when you have a chicken addiction like I do. We’re now at place where we’re comfortable and won’t be expanding much more. The only addition we are planning is to keep one of Sedona’s doelings so she’s no longer the third wheel around here. Other than that, we’re at a happy medium.

When introducing livestock it’s really important – I can’t emphasis this enough – to take it slow. Before taking on any livestock make sure to do your research and definitely make sure whether that animal is even legal to keep in your community. Take classes and meet others that are raising that species. Ask questions, lots of questions, and take the advice given to you. Figure out where you can get feed and supplies for them and where the closest vet is that will see that animal. Take on one species at a time and get into a good routine with them before taking on something new. Start with easier animals like chickens or rabbits. Evaluate how much work they require and whether you have the time to take on more. And, of course, be honest with yourself. If you’re already super busy with everything in your life are you really willing to commit the time that’s needed for more animals? Even if you really, Really, REALLY want goats but you barely have time to yourself they probably aren’t the right animal for you.

Taking it slow will ensure that you and your animals are happy and productive.

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Guest Post – Bees in the Backyard

Dee Mason shares with us today about making the choice to become a beekeeper in the city. 
 
Bees in the Backyard 

People have been keeping beessince the time of the ancient Egyptians. While the technology has changed therewards remain great and now many city dwellers have caught on to thebeekeeping craze. You might not think it, but beekeeping is fun and safe. Andit can even be profitable. Here’s what you need to know about urban beekeeping.
How Hard is Urban Beekeeping?

First of all, urban beekeepingisn’t difficult. It takes about the same commitment as looking after yourroof garden or window box. Before you start, though, you’ll need to makesure that you are allowed to keep bees in your backyard. Check up on zoningpermissions and, it wouldn’t hurt to make sure the neighbors are ok with ittoo. If someone next door is allergic to bees, you might need to think again.Next, think about the space available for keeping your bees. You don’t need alot for a single colony so if you’ve got a little outdoor space, like a roofdeck, you’ll probably be ok.
What You Need

Next, you’ll need to get some equipment.Beehives need to be kept off the ground to protect them from predators. You canbuy a hive stand or make one yourself out of blocks and planks of wood. You’llneed something to protect the hive from the wind. In an urban setting, you’llprobably have a high wall somewhere that will help with this. And if your beesare hidden from view, it’s less likely that your neighbors will be botheredabout them. Bees need a lot of water, and they like to collect it themselves. Afaucet dripping onto a piece of wood or a plant pot which serves as a mini-pondcan be good options. One thing bees don’t need, which may surprise you, isflowers. Bees are happy to fly for miles to collect pollen and there areusually plenty of flowers around, even in an urban area.
Protecting Yourself from the Bees

You will also need protectivewear. You don’t need always need a full protective suit like the ones yousometimes see on TV, but you will need a hat–to keep bees out of yourhair–and a veil–to keep them away from your face. A light jacket to protectthe arms may also be a good idea. However, if you want to be sure of beingprotected from stings, then the full suit is an option. The most importantthing is to feel comfortable when working with your bees and moving boxes around. Finally, you’llneed something to smoke the bees out when you’re ready to work in the hive.
Get Trained

Many first time urban beekeepersattend a course to find out all they need to know about bee behavior. It’s importantto know how bees nest–in cavities and hollows–where they store honey. Also,where the queen lives and where the eggs are–in the bottom of the hive, whichis the safest area. Your hive needs to replicate this if you are building ityourself, or you can buy a purpose built hive that’s right for your space.
Now you’re set, it’s time tochoose your bees–Italians, Russians, Carnolians or a variation of thosethree–and introduce them to the hive. Once your bees are in, then you’ll havelittle to do in fall and winter, but when the eggs are laid in spring or summeryou’ll need to make sure your bees are protected from mites. Watch out forswarming too, as you could lose half your colony.
Harvesting the Honey

The summer honey harvest is thetime you’ve been waiting for, when you get to reap the rewards of a successfulbeekeeping year. Depending on how much you spend on hives and equipment you maynot make that much the first year, but you’d be surprised how profitable urbanbeekeeping can be.  Not every harvest is good, but when you get a goodone, you can have fresh honey for breakfast and bring in some pennies. Yourneighbors will probably be happy to buy from you and you can check out localmarkets as well. Done right, urban beekeeping is profitable, personallyrewarding and safe–try it today!
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Bee Inspection – Varroa Management and Adding a Super

Curbstone Valley has two fantastic posts about varroa monitoring and management. As always, they have two brilliant posts that goes in depth and is easily understood. So instead of rehashing all of their info, I’ll just go over our bee update and how we are dealing with varroa.

When doing our inspection we were pleasantly surprised to see our colony only had one frame not built up completely in both deep supers. They were very strong in numbers so we knew we had a good queen. There was some nice brood frames as well. You can see the larvae in the uncapped cells. 
 

Not only were there lots of brood, but they were now producing full frames of honey in the lower box. This also meant that it was time to increase the size of the hive. With only one frame left not fully completed, we needed to give them more space so they wouldn’t feel the need to swarm. We were also getting ready for the summer bloom so they needed as much room as they could get.

But this inspection wasn’t just to check how the colony was thriving. We needed to do a varroa mite check. Our hive came with a screened bottom board and a sticky board that slides under the screen. Our board has lines and numbers on it, which makes it infinitely easier to make varroa counts. We cleaned off the board and then sprayed it with cooking oil. The oil traps the varroa that fall through so they can’t scamper away.  We decided to use  powdered sugar on our hive to facilitate the mite drop. We simply dusted the tops of the frames on each super and then using a bee brush, brushed it across the top so it fell through, dusting the bees. The powdered sugar does two things. It causes the mites to loose their grip on the bees and it also stimulates the bees into grooming themselves, which dislodges more mites. As an added bonus, it also feeds them.

After we dusted the hive, we put on a queen excluder on the top deep super and then added our honey super. This helps keep the queen from laying eggs in the honey super. I don’t know about you, but I’m not particularly excited about having larvae in my honey.

This is our hive right now. With the way things are going right now, I’m planning on picking up another honey super very soon to have on hand.

After 24 hours (you can do 48 and 72 hours and then divide by the number of days to get the 24 hour count) we pulled out our sticky board, brought it in the house and sat down to do the count. The mites were pretty easy to find. They are a dark red and have these tiny legs sticking out on one side. Our count was a respectable 13 mites in 24 hours. So we had varroa. Really, there’s no way to avoid it, but we needed to take action and use integrated pest management (IPM) to keep the numbers low.

Our first line of defense was, of course, the powdered sugar. We’ll regularly dust the bees to help keep the mites off of them. It’s said that dusting with powdered sugar can help reduce the mite load by 25%. While that doesn’t seem like much, it does add up over time. Our second line of defense is using drone frames to trap the mites. Mites prefer drone brood because they are larger and spend more time in the capped cells giving mites the chance to reproduce more. Our drone frames are bright green to make them easy to find.

We put the frames in 2 weeks ago and crossed our fingers. We checked the hive yesterday to find the comb on the frames built and eggs in the comb….I think. I think I saw eggs, but to be honest, it’s REALLY hard to see anything through the veil and white against fluorescent green isn’t a very good contrast. In two weeks we’ll check the hive again and probably pull the comb to see what the mite load is.

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So You Want to Host a Bee Hive?

You love the idea of keeping bees on your property but you don’t know anything about them and don’t want to take on the added responsibility of caring for them. There are lots of beekeepers out there that are looking for people to team up with. They will keep the hive on your property and you get the benefit of pollination, helping save bees, and maybe even get a little honey.

However, learn from my bad experience doing this and take my advice before allowing a stranger to have access to your property – many times when you’re not at home.

  • The best way to find a beekeeper is to get a referral from a friend that has been hosting hives for that beekeeper for at least a year. That way they are familiar with the level of maintenance that beekeeper did, especially during Spring when hives are getting ready to swarm. If you don’t know anyone, contact your local beekeeper association or club for a referral.
  • When you contact the beekeeper ask them if they are familiar with the laws in your community. Also make sure to ask for at least three references. When you contact the references you’ll want to ask them:
  • How long they’ve been hosting for this beekeeper?
  • What is their experience has been with the beekeeper and the hives?
  • Have they had to take care of any maintenance items because they couldn’t get a hold of the beekeeper?
  • Have they had any problems with swarms from the hives?
  • How often does the beekeeper come to do maintenance?
  • How are the bees right after the beekeeper has left? Are they still relatively calm or are they aggressive?
  • Is the beekeeper clean or do they leave garbage around the hives?
  • Any other questions you feel are important. 
  • Meet with the beekeeper on your property. Discuss:
    • Location of hives
    • What you would get in return (i.e. honey, wax, pollen, etc.) and how much.
    • How long they are expecting to keep their hives on your property and how long you want them to stay. If the timelines don’t match up then you should consider finding a different beekeeper if they aren’t willing to meet your timeline.
  • If you decide to go with the beekeeper make sure that you have everything in writing. If you don’t get everything in writing you can risk not being able to get the person off of your property if things don’t work out thanks to common bailment law. If the beekeeper is not willing to sign this contract, do not work with them. You will want to include:
    • What and how much you will get in return for hosting. 
    • How long they are allowed to keep bees on your property. Think of it as a lease that can be renewed. You can make it month-to-month or a year long or 10 years long. Just remember that if it doesn’t work out it will be more difficult to get them off our property the longer the “lease” is. I would recommend doing something month-to-month or otherwise include a jerk clause.
    • Set your boundaries. Are they to call 24hrs prior to coming onto your property? Are they to only be in one area of your property and no where else? Remember, this is a stranger that you are allowing access to your property.
    • How often they are to come and maintain the hives at a minimum. 
    • And of course make it clear that if they don’t follow through with their side of this contract you may give them 30 day notice to remove their things from your property and if they don’t do so in the allotted time, their equipment will be considered abandoned and ownership will be transferred to you and they will no longer be allowed on your property. 
    • That the beekeeper goes onto your property at their own risk.
  • If you keep locks on your gates don’t give the beekeeper a key right away. Make sure they know they are to call ahead of time so that you can make sure they can get onto your property (why calling 24 hours prior is important to include in the contract). If, after a year, you are feeling more comfortable with the beekeeper feel free to give them a key. 
  • It may sound a bit paranoid, but with my experience (and a couple of other people I know dealing with similar experiences) with hosting hives I have realized you can never be too careful. Think of it as a job interview or renting a room to a stranger.

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    Checking in on the Bees

    It’s been just over 2 weeks since we last checked in with our bees. We wanted to make sure everyone was settled in, that the queen was healthy and that brood was successfully becoming worker bees. The frames were all lined up properly again, which supports my earlier suspicions that a certain unwelcome someone was in our hive that first week we installed the package.

    Again, after opening we saw that there was some burr comb. It was still quite soft and easy to remove. I know I’ve said this before but these bees are so very docile. When we took our beekeeping class you could definitely tell when the bees were getting agitated by the buzzing they made. Ours never get over a very mild hum.

    The queen is now laying eggs in the all of the brood box frames except for one on the very outside. This frame is all new brood. There is some capped brood and the uncapped cells were filled with larvae and eggs. But we weren’t done, we wanted to find the queen.

    Of course she was on the very last frame. You can see her just right of center. She’s very easy to spot – black with a white dot.

    She was on the nicest frame of brood we’ve seen so far. In the center is a nice dense pattern of capped brood. Right outside of that are cells filled with pollen. In the corners is capped honey. 
    I’m so happy to see that the hive is doing well.
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    Our Second Bee Visit

    With the new colony settling in we decided it was time to check on them again to see how they were doing. We wanted to check on how the brood was developing.

    We opened up the hive (which they have now sealed with propolis) to find a small mound of burr comb in the middle of the frames. We gently removed the comb and put it aside. Now it was time to check the frames.

    The frames closest to me were pretty much empty. Once we went through all of the frames we stuck the outside frame in between some full frames so the bees will build comb on it. Otherwise they’ll just stay in the center and not use the outside frames.

    The queen we found almost immediately. I love having a marked queen as it makes it so much easier to find her. Finding her when checking the hive lets you know she’s still there.

    If you remember, last week we found lots of eggs. Now all those eggs have become brood, most of which is capped. You can see capped honey in the upper left hand corner, pollen below that and then a very nice pattern of worker brood comb.

    With a close up you can see some of the larvae in the cells. These will be eventually capped like the rest of the brood. Now that we know the colony is doing well and that the queen is well bred we’ll leave them alone for awhile.

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    Out Among the Bees

    The weekend before last we got our first package of bees. We chose to go with Carniolans our first go because they are said to be more docile. The queen package didn’t have candy in it, just a cork so we chose to just leave her in the cage for several days to make sure the workers would accept her. On Tuesday I removed the cork and released the queen. She scurried out quickly and disappeared. I closed up the hive and let them do their thing.

    Yesterday we decided it was time to check on them again. We wanted to check their progress and make sure the queen was accepted and that she was laying eggs. The Carniolans are indeed very docile. They didn’t mind us at all, however, we made sure not to be too disruptive and to move slowly, deliberately and treat them with respect – no smashed bees here.

    Gap between frames. The frames were all pushed together when I last was in the hive.

    There was a tiny amount of brace comb, which we easily removed. I was dismayed to find some of our frames had been moved apart from the rest opening us up to a whole mess of problems with burr comb. When I released the queen I had made sure that all the frames were against each other tightly. I have my suspicions as to what happened.

    The queen was very easy to find. She’s nearly black and was marked with a white dot. We checked all the frames and were happy to see a bit of capped honey, nectar and pollen stores along with eggs!

     The green arrow is pointing to a cell filled with nectar. The red arrow is pointing to an egg (they look like miniature grains of rice) and the blue arrow is pointing at pollen. The photo isn’t the best but you should be able to click on it to enlarge it.

    We’ll check next week sometime to see what kind of brood we’ve got.


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    Dogs & Bees – No Bueno

    At first we thought Squeek had rubbed her muzzle raw on the fence while barking viciously at the dogs the next door. Then it dawned on me that she got stung by a bee while we were in the garden and this must have been where it happened. She had pulled the stinger out before we could check her out so at the time it wasn’t clear where it had occurred. This photo was taken last weekend and it’s still looking pretty bad, though it’s not as swollen now. Next time I’ll need to remember to give her some benedryl. Poor pup.

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    Monday’s Guests – On Purchasing Honey

    We’ve got our very first guest post for the New Year! Today’s post comes from Gary Sieling of Making Beehives.

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    As far back as I can remember, my father has kept bees. As children we each had our own beehive and we helped him extract the honey. I have fond memories of the fragrance of melted beeswax mixed with the golden, sweet honey. He still keeps bees, and until recently, I never purchased honey from a store, and that only for this piece.

    A friend bought ten pounds of Dad’s honey and remarked that he now only needs half as much honey as before, as this honey has a much richer flavor than what he bought before. Honey sold commercially is graded by the USDA on attributes like clarity, color, and flavor, but there is a wide variance in beekeeper’s field methods. USDA guidelines separate products between consumer and industrial uses. The grocery shopper is left to consider labels chosen by wholesalers and individual apiaries from a variety of geographical origins, floral sources, and treatment
    and feeding options.


    Bees collect nectar from flowers or sugar syrups, which they partially digest and store in small wax compartments. Flowers local to the apiary and in season when the honey was made determine honey color, taste, and flavor. For me, part of the charm is that each bottle is a little different. There are certainly companies that try to give their honey a uniform flavor, but it goes against the grain of the product.

    Beekeepers often feed the bees a sugar syrup in the fall to build up the hive’s store of food, if they are concerned about the hive’s survival. Some beekeepers have been accused of doing this to create saleable honey, or mixing honey and sugar syrup.

    Many beekeepers treat bees for parasites such as varroa mites, which suck vital fluids from a bee’s body. Commercial miticides must be applied with care to prevent honey contamination. A growing trend among beekeepers is treatment free beekeeping, which advocates mechanical protections for bees, rather than chemical, with the idea that over-treatment leads to resistance and food contamination.

    Large commercial packers flash heat honey, then filter it to remove every particle of wax and pollen. This leaves a crystal clear product with longer shelf life but volatile flavors are lost. Smaller producers warm honey just so it flows, then strain it to remove wax particles. The result may be clear or cloudy, but has much more flavor. This honey may crystalize more easily, but this is easily reversed by gently warming it in a double boiler until the sugar crystals melt.

    Field methods are controversial, and not always apparent from the honey labelling. If you buy straight from a beekeeper (or find a bottle with an apiary’s number), you can ask them how their bees are treated, whether the honey is from flowers or sugar fed, and whether the honey is even from your area.

    Gary Sieling is a partner at Garreson Publishing, who make woodworking books for beekeepers. You can contact him at gary@garresonpublishing.com.

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